In 2020, Cartier renewed the familiar "Pasha de Cartier" (hereafter referred to as "Pasha"). In addition, they added an extension to the "Santos-Dumont." The hand-wound Santos with the Caliber 430MC is truly attractive, but the first watch I want to talk about is the everlasting classic, the Pasha. The reason is simple: I'm a secret Pasha fan.
The 2020 Pasha de Cartier comes in two sizes: a 41mm case and a 35mm case. This is the smaller 35mm. The main difference is the lack of a date display. Also, the inside of the crown guard plate is not engraved with "LC." While Cartier has not disclosed this, the watch boasts magnetic resistance up to 1200 gauss. Automatic movement (Cal. 1847MC). 23 jewels. 28,800 vph. Approximately 40-hour power reserve. Water resistant to 100m. Stainless steel (35mm diameter, 9.37mm thickness). Estimated price: ¥655,000 (excluding tax). Scheduled for release in September 2020. The larger 41mm model is stainless steel (41mm diameter, 9.55mm thickness). Estimated price: ¥710,000 (excluding tax). For detailed specifications, see the link at the bottom of this article.
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Cartier "Pasha de Cartier"
According to Cartier's account, the Pasha originally began as a waterproof watch delivered to the Deputy of Marrakech in 1943. In response to his request for a watch that could be used while swimming in his home pool, Cartier created a round-cased waterproof watch. In 86, Cartier revived this design, releasing the "Pasha de Cartier 38mm" (hereafter referred to as "Pasha 38mm") and "Pasha de Cartier 35mm" (hereafter referred to as "Pasha 35mm"). Rumors that Gérald Genta redesigned the Pasha for its revival are false.
Since then, the Pasha collection has been a huge hit, becoming the backbone of Cartier. My personal favorites among the Pasha watches would be the Pasha 35mm and, in terms of movement alone, the "Pasha de Cartier 42mm," which is equipped with a Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 8000 series (which later became the basis for the Caliber 1904MC). The Pasha 38mm was a watch for connoisseurs, equipped with movements such as the Frédéric Piguet Caliber 1150 and the mechanical quartz Caliber 1270 series, but it was too big for my wrist.
However, models that appeal to "otaku" like me don't necessarily sell. The Pasha 35mm dropped the elaborate bracelet inherited from the Pasha 38mm and became the mass-produced "Pasha C" in 95. Also, the 42mm, released as a luxury version of the Pasha, didn't seem to sell in large numbers. Pasha sales were concentrated on the Pasha C, and in fact, Cartier kept this collection in its lineup from around 2015 to 16.
The exterior, including the bracelet, has been significantly improved from the previous model.
In 2020, Cartier revived the Pasha. It comes in 35mm and 41mm case sizes, and is powered by the in-house Cal. 1847MC movement. It comes in three case sizes: stainless steel, 18K yellow gold, and gold. From what I can tell, the new Pasha is a true upgrade from the classic Pasha 35mm and 38mm.
It's worth noting that it uses the same "Smart Link" bracelet as the Santos de Cartier, which allows for easy size adjustment and provides just the right amount of play between the left and right sides. The new bracelet surpasses the Pasha 35mm and 38mm, making it arguably the best bracelet in the Pasha's history. It's worth trying for anyone who has struggled with the "stiff" bracelet on the Pasha C.
Along with the development of its own movements, Cartier also began to manufacture its exteriors in-house. As a result, it is now able to manufacture almost all cases in-house, greatly improving the level of perfection of the exteriors. This is evident in the Santos de Cartier, released in 19. In-house production also made it possible to use the elaborate Smart Link bracelet.
The high level of finish of the exterior is evident in the beautifully mirrored bezel. The graining on the sides of the case has also been tightened, and the plate that supports the waterproof cap that fits over the crown is now recessed into the case. The excellent fit demonstrates the high level of precision in the processing. To be honest, the cases of the previous Pasha watches (especially those up until the 2000s) could hardly be described as well-made, but it can be said that Cartier has made up for that in one fell swoop.
The design is almost faithful to the previous Pasha. However, as a result of the bezel being fixed, the "edge" that supports the crystal has become thinner, and the bezel itself has a slight concave (which is very pleasing) like the early Pasha C. This concave, along with the side of the case that tapers slightly towards the case back, makes the new Pasha look much more three-dimensional as a whole. Although it is a subtle change, the complex case shape is also likely a benefit of in-house case manufacturing.
Equipped with Cal. 1847MC, suitable for everyday use
The movement used is the Caliber 1847MC, which has been Cartier's core movement since the launch of Clé de Cartier. While the finishing is not as good as its big brother, the Caliber 1904MC, its high scalability has led to this movement being used in ebauches not only by Cartier but also by other companies in the Richemont Group. It has two main features: easy maintenance and efficient winding. It was designed by Carole Forestier Cazapi, who also worked on the Caliber 1904MC.
In 2019, Cartier changed the escapement of its Caliber 1847MC to a non-magnetic material. While specific figures have not been released, Cazapi states that the resistance is 1200 gauss. The new Pasha, which uses this latest version, should have the same high level of magnetic resistance as last year's Santos de Cartier. The new Pasha should be suitable for everyday wear, even for women who prefer handbags with magnetic clasps.
However, even this outstanding watch has its weaknesses. The movement, Cal. 1847, is what the Richemont Group calls a "Magic Click," a ratchet-type automatic winding mechanism that uses a pawl to wind the watch. This winding efficiency is extremely high, virtually eliminating the need for manual winding. As a result, the crown, once again covered by a crown cap, is not large. While the crown fits the fingers better than the previous model, the small crown makes it difficult to wind and set the time. I understand that the crown cannot be made larger due to the huge cap, but this is a bit disappointing.
The new Pasha (especially the 35mm model), which combines the Santos de Cartier-inherited Smart Link bracelet, high magnetic resistance, and a high-quality exterior, could be said to be the perfect Pasha. While it looks similar to the previous Pasha, the craftsmanship is very different. Both the 41mm and 35mm models are stylish luxury watches, but I personally recommend the 35mm size, which has no date and a case packed with movement. Another great thing about this size is that it can be shared with your wife or girlfriend. If you've owned a Pasha before, you should definitely take a look at it. It's a truly captivating experience.
http://www.webchronos.net/2020-new-watches/44638/
http://www.webchronos.net/features/42508/
