Since last year, Panerai has been emphasizing its sports watch line. To celebrate the 70th anniversary of the Luminor, the company has been working on new materials. One particularly interesting example is the Luminor Marina DMLS-44 MM, which uses a titanium case created using the Direct Metal Laser Sintering (DMLS) method.
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
A new era of sports watches
Panerai has undergone a major change in direction since the appointment of new CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué. Opinions are divided, but there is no doubt that the brand is at least clarifying its position as a sports watch for the new era.
Currently, with the exception of the OP series, which is a modified version of the Valfleurier ébauche movement for Panerai, all of Panerai's in-house movements feature a highly shock-resistant free-sprung balance and a long power reserve of at least three days. If these features are considered to be extremely suited to sports watches, it is no surprise that Panerai has taken the bold step of moving in the sports direction by separating the diver's watch "Submersible" from the "Luminor" line.
"Luminor" strengthens its sports line
In 2020, the classic Luminor model will be given a boost. The approach taken is the same as last year, strengthening the sporty line. A common theme among the new models is the use of new materials typical of sports watches. The one I personally found particularly interesting is the Luminor Marina DMLS-44 MM, which uses a titanium case created using the Direct Metal Laser Sintering (DMLS) method.
Luminor Case
On March 18, 2012, the Richemont Group obtained a patent (EP2485099A2) for a method for manufacturing hollow cases using a 3D printer, titled "Method for producing a watch case middle of reduced weight." The Direct Metal Laser Sintering (DMLS) method using a 3D printer was developed by the German company EOS GmbH, which obtained a patent for this technology in 2006.
The idea of hollowing out a case had been around for some time. Take the Swatch Group, which patented a method for manufacturing hollow cases that would reduce the cost of precious metal cases. However, the Swatch Group appears to have only used this advanced technique on Swatches with precious metal cases. Panerai's attempt, on the other hand, was not aimed at reducing costs, but at making the case lighter. The patent states: "The case middle will contain at least 25% less material than a case middle of the same external shape but without an internal cavity."
In 2016, Panerai introduced a DMLS-processed titanium case for the Lo Scienziato Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT Titanio - 47mm. While the case is visually identical to existing models, grade 5 titanium powder is sintered with a 200/400W fiber optic laser to create 0.02mm layers, which are then layered one on top of the other to create the case. Because the case is hollow, it's 40% lighter than previous models. It also allows for the creation of highly complex internal geometries (Panerai officials described the interior as a honeycomb structure), which theoretically provides high tensile strength and resistance to torsion.
In 2020, Panerai applied this elaborate DMLS process to the standard Luminor rather than the more expensive Lo Scienziato. According to the press release, the watch weighs approximately 100g including the strap. Panerai had previously been unconcerned with weight (lightness), but with this model, they have completely reversed this trend and emphasized lightness. Replacing the baseplate and bridges with titanium, as with the 2018 Lo Scienziato, would have made the watch even lighter, but the price would have also increased.
One can speculate that the reason they were able to mass-produce even just 270 pieces is due to advances in the DMLS manufacturing process (note that the PAM01662, which uses DMLS titanium for only the middle case, is a regular model). While no information has been disclosed, we would like to make a deduction based on the data. For the 2016/18 Lo Scienziato, the thickness of the layer laminated by the 3D printer was 0.02mm (20 microns). In comparison, the 2020 Luminor Marina DMLS-44 MM is slightly thicker at 0.03mm (30 microns). While the difference in numbers is only 0.01mm, the amount of lamination per lamination has increased by 150%. In other words, the number of laminations required to create one case must have decreased, which could result in increased productivity. However, this is merely a hypothesis.
The hollow titanium case of the Roscienziato is given a grained finish, following the example of Panerai's high-end models. In contrast, this model has a micro-sandblasted titanium case. While it would not have been difficult to give it a grained finish, Panerai likely wanted to demonstrate the advanced nature of this manufacturing method in a way that was easy to understand. Since I cannot see the actual watch, my impression is based solely on photos, but despite the complex case shape, the sandblasted finish is applied evenly.
70 year warranty
In addition to the hollow case, this model has several other novel features. One is a 70-year warranty. It's not that no maintenance is required for 70 years, but that it comes with a warranty. It's unclear how Panerai achieves a 70-year warranty, but it's a bold move that is typical of the current Panerai. The reason it's 70, not 50 or 100, is because this year marks the 70th anniversary of Luminor.
Super Luminova "X1"
Another feature is the use of Super-LumiNova "X1." Panerai says that this new luminous paint is applied not only to the dial and hands, but also to the crown guard and its bridge, the crystal flange (face cover), and the crown. In addition, the stitching on the strap (!) is also luminous, so the watch is sure to sparkle at night. Longtime Panerai fans may not like it, but I'm such a fan of luminous materials that I wish the entire dial was Luminova. Such an initiative is very welcome, especially when it's not too outlandish, like this one.
However, there are some questions. The new Super-LumiNova "X1" is likely to be an oxide primarily made of alumina, just like the conventional material. Therefore, while it can be used inside sealed cases, such as on dials and hands, it would be difficult to use it on external surfaces such as cases and crowns. Nemoto Luminous, the original developer, states that "if special treatment is applied, it can be used outdoors in direct sunlight," but as far as I know, there have been no examples of it being used on watch cases or other surfaces. Panerai must have applied some kind of treatment, but the details are unknown.
Panerai's movement "Cal. 9010" highly praised by "Chronos Japan Edition"
I'd like to touch on the movement it uses. The automatic Caliber 9010 series is the successor to the Caliber 9000 series, which was created to replace the OP series. It features a free-sprung balance and a long power reserve of approximately three days, and the Magic Click system ensures excellent winding efficiency. While these features are the same as the 9000 series, the movement is approximately 2mm thinner, resulting in a case thickness of 15.56mm (compared to 14.2mm for the regular model PAM01662). While this is quite thick by today's standards, it is still considered thin for Panerai, and considering the lightness of the case, it is likely to be comfortable to wear.
The Luminor Marina DMLS-44 MM has cleverly transformed into a modern sports watch while retaining the Panerai signature. I haven't seen the actual watch, but considering Panerai's past, I think this is an attractive watch and it's unlikely to disappoint. webChronos and this magazine plan to feature this watch again once samples arrive.
http://www.webchronos.net/2020-new-watches/44695/
http://www.webchronos.net/news/40650/
