Vacheron Constantin's "Fiftysix" has become a global hit. In 2020, the brand added a rare brown dial. However, this is not just any brown. The color is achieved using a new technique called CVD.
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Friendly and elegant
At one time, Chronos defined watches that look formal but can also be worn casually as informal watches. We stopped using the term (and have since reduced it) because we couldn't express it well, but there's no doubt that the trend in regular watches is also moving towards informality. Long-established brand Vacheron Constantin also seemed unable to ignore this trend, and announced the round-case "Fiftysix" at SIHH (now Watches & Wonders) in 2018. Vacheron Constantin's description of the watch as "approachable and elegant" is quite apt.
A new variation of the smash hit, Fiftysix
Hiroyuki Suzuki wrote in detail about the design codes for this model in Chronos Japan (see the link below). Honestly, if you read that, you won't need any further explanation, so I won't go into too much detail here. This model is truly interesting in that it takes an older model as its motif and elevates it with a modern touch. The shape of the lugs is reminiscent of the 1950s, the indexes are a mix of the bars popular in the 40s and Arabic numerals, and the method of thickening the case sides is reminiscent of the 90s. It may look like a pastiche, but it's a distinct style, as you'd expect from Vacheron Constantin today. It's no wonder this model has been such a big hit.
In 2020, the collection added two new models with 18KPG cases and brown dials. These are the Fiftysix Complete Calendar with a moon phase calendar and the three-hand Fiftysix Automatic. According to the company's artistic director, Christian Selmoni, "This dial is not plated or painted, but finished using the CVD (Chemical Vapor Deposition) method (a type of wet-dry plating)." Selmoni explains that it was developed in collaboration with a dial manufacturer. This time, we will be looking at the three-hand Fiftysix Automatic model.
What is CVD, the new dial technique?
Vacheron Constantin took on the challenge of creating colorful dials with the Overseas, and it was a huge success. The polished lacquer dial is now considered an icon of the Overseas. The decision to leave the lacquer finish is unusual for a sports watch, but Sermoni explained that it was because they wanted to differentiate themselves from their competitors. Since then, creating distinctive dials has become the company's specialty, and in 2019, they added a blue dial to the Fiftysix. While I didn't hear any details about this last year, it seems that this was also treated using the CVD method.
Currently, there are two main methods for adding color to a dial. One is painting, and the other is wet plating. The former method makes it easy to achieve vibrant colors and the color is stable. However, the thick coating makes it difficult to retain the nuances of the base. The latter method is thin and is suitable for showing the base, but the color is difficult to stabilize. As a result, some manufacturers have recently begun using the PVD method, a type of dry plating, for dial treatment. Omega is a good example.
So why did Vacheron Constantin adopt the CVD method? It's no longer difficult to achieve a brown color even with the PVD method, and thermal CVD requires processing temperatures more than twice as high as PVD. If it were applied to a brass dial base, it would likely deform. However, the recently introduced plasma CVD method theoretically has the potential to keep temperatures low, so deformation would likely be eliminated or minimized even when applied to a brass base. This is purely speculation, but perhaps Vacheron Constantin has adopted the new plasma CVD method?
Regardless, this technique, like the PVD method, has several advantages. One is that it's easy to achieve a uniform color despite the thin film (compared to plating). Sermoni also added that it's "UV resistant." However, it's typical of Vacheron Constantin to have applied a transparent lacquer on top. While there's no need to apply lacquer to a CVD-treated dial (Omega, which uses the PVD method, omits this), Vacheron Constantin likely wanted to create a nuance reminiscent of a luxury watch. I haven't seen this year's model, so I can't say for sure, but judging from last year's blue dial, this seems a good guess. If they can achieve vibrant color and a luxurious feel with a thin film, Vacheron Constantin will surely be adopting a variety of colored dials in the future.
Equipped with a reliable automatic movement, Cal. 1326
Aside from the dial, the construction is the same as the previous model. The Caliber 1326 movement, whose original design dates back to Jaeger-LeCoultre's Caliber 8000 series, is also featured. While it features a double barrel, its purpose is not to extend the power reserve but to increase barrel rotations for improved accuracy. The design philosophy is the same as that of the classic Longines L.990 and recent Richard Mille movements. While it lacks the Geneva Seal, the finish is maintained in accordance with Vacheron Constantin standards. The winding mechanism is a ratchet-type "Magic Click," and its already high winding efficiency has been further improved by replacing the rotor with 22K gold. As expected of a luxury watch, the hand setting is smooth and there is no skipping. The meticulous attention to detail is truly in keeping with the timepiece's heritage.
I haven't held this watch in my hands so I don't know the details, but the finish of the case is likely to be good, as is typical of Vacheron Constantin's current models.
The strap is interesting. This time, it is made of dark brown calfskin. The stitching is white, reminiscent of a sports watch. The stitching looks thick, but Sermoni says, "The stitching is the same as before." It's a nice attempt to add a casual touch without being too excessive.
The new Fiftysix is a watch that exudes a skillful balance, typical of Vacheron Constantin today. It emphasizes casualness while remaining elegant, which is nothing short of impressive. I expect it to be a good watch, just like the previous model, but unfortunately, I haven't seen it yet! I plan to write a report once the actual watch arrives, but the schedule is undecided lol. I might write one if there are many requests.
http://www.webchronos.net/2020-new-watches/44763/
