The "Calatrava" is a representative collection that symbolizes the "Calatrava Cross," the emblem of Patek Philippe. We will explore the appeal of the Calatrava, known as the ultimate dress watch and a model for round wristwatches, and introduce three masterpieces from the current line.
Patek Philippe and Calatrava
Patek Philippe watches boast unique value due to their quality certification by the Patek Philippe Seal and the ability to repair even the oldest watches.
To explore the appeal of the Calatrava, a symbol of timeless value, we will first look at the history of Patek Philippe from its founding to the birth of the Calatrava.
The history of Patek Philippe since 1839
In 1839, Antoine Norbert de Patek and François Czapek founded the company "Patek, Czapek".
In 1845, Jean-Adrien Philippe, inventor of the crown winding and time-setting mechanism, joined the company, and in 1851 the company name was changed to "Patek Philippe & Co."
The world's first crown-operated pocket watch was well-received and the brand gained a solid position with royalty, aristocrats, and famous artists as its customer base.
Furthermore, the company has been a leader in the watch industry as a leader in complex mechanisms, having introduced the world's first pocket watch with a perpetual calendar in 1864 and the world's first wristwatch with a perpetual calendar in 1925.
Calatrava has a simple round design
In 1932, during a period that could be considered a transition from pocket watches to wristwatches, Patek Philippe released the Calatrava Ref. 96.
The Ref. 96 is based on the face of a pocket watch, but pursues the functionality of a wristwatch. It is a simple and practical model that integrates the round case and lugs and strips away decoration.
The balance between the indexes and hands, which is suitable for wristwatches smaller than pocket watches, became a model for determining the golden ratio of dials.
Even today, many watch manufacturers use the Ref. 96 design as a basis for producing two- and three-hand dress watches.
The appeal of Calatrava
The values that Patek Philippe pursues are symbolized by the brand's emblem.
Let's take a look at the story behind the Calatrava cross engraved on the crown and movement of the Calatrava, as well as the design and functionality of this watch.
The story of its birth and the origin of its name
In 1887, Patek Philippe registered the "Calatrava Cross" as its brand emblem. Calatrava was the name of the first combat order of knights established in Spain in the 12th century, known for fighting against Islamic forces. Its coat of arms consisted of four fleur-de-lis flowers.
This perfectly balanced coat of arms symbolizes courage, courtesy, and independence, and the Ref. 96 bearing the Calatrava name has come to symbolize the timeless design and values that Patek Philippe strives for.
Simple and well-balanced design
The Ref. 96 does not use numerical indices, but instead uses three-dimensional applied indices and dauphine hands, which create complex shadows when exposed to light, allowing the wearer to instantly read the time from any angle.
The bezel is thin, and the lugs that extend smoothly from the case are curved toward the case back. The lugs that are integrated into the case are not only strong, but also have an ergonomic design that fits the wrist well.
Although the Calatrava has become increasingly diverse in the approximately 90 years since its first release, all models have a simple, well-balanced design that is both elegant and practical.
Calatrava models
Over its nearly 90-year history, the Calatrava has produced at least 25 derivative models. Let's take a look at the original Ref. 96, its successors Ref. 3796 and Ref. 5296, and the Ref. 5119, which features a unique bezel decoration.
The origin of the nickname "Kunroku" Ref.96
The Ref. 96, the origin of the Calatrava, was a long-selling model sold from 1932 until the 70s. In Japan, it is affectionately known as "Kunroku" and is still highly sought after on the secondary market as a classic masterpiece.
It has a classic style with large dauphine hands and applied indexes, and a seconds circle at 6 o'clock.
While the case is small, measuring approximately 31mm in diameter, the leather strap is 18mm wide, suggesting a design philosophy that emphasizes strength and practicality.
Inheriting the DNA of the original model, Ref. 3796
The Ref. 3796, sold from 1982 to 2000, is a classic watch that reproduces the design of the original Ref. 96 model.
The design is largely the same, including the case diameter and strap width, but the movement is more efficient and thinner.
The hand-wound movement, Cal. 215 PS, beats at approximately 28,800 vibrations per hour and boasts a power reserve of approximately 44 hours. The bezel and case back are flat, making this a slim model that is comfortable to wear.
The Dauphine hands are sharp and the applied indexes have a more three-dimensional look, ensuring high visibility while providing a stylish finish.
The striking 38mm case Ref.5296
The Ref. 5296, sold from 2005 to 2019, is a model that inherits the design of the Ref. 96 but has an enlarged case diameter of 38mm.
Equipped with the automatic movement Cal. 324 SC, the second hand has been moved to the center and a date display is installed at the 3 o'clock position. The absence of a small second hand gives the dial a clean, uncluttered look.
In addition to the striking model shown in the photo, which features two circles on the dial, there is also a model with a simple dial that was released in 2007.
Ref.5119 with a shining Clous de Paris decoration
The Ref. 5119, sold from 2006 to 2019, is the successor to the classic Ref. 3919, sold from 1985 to 2006. The design code is significantly different from the Ref. 96 lineage.
The dial features leaf-shaped hands and Roman numerals, and the lugs are thin and straight, giving the watch an overall delicate impression. Of particular note is the Clous de Paris pattern engraved on the bezel.
The top of the bezel is higher than the guilloche surface, creating a three-dimensional effect that disguises the dial as being flat.
