Practicality is important for a watch worn every day, but hand-wound watches, which require a lot of effort, remain very popular. We explore the appeal of hand-wound watches, rather than quartz or automatic, and also explain how to operate the crown and how to maintain them.
Understand the differences in drivetrains
Almost all wristwatches are either quartz or mechanical. Quartz watches are highly practical, but there is a certain romance to mechanical watches that do not rely on IC control. Hand-wound watches, in particular, have a deep charm that can only be experienced with them.
First, let's look at the differences between mechanical and quartz watches, and between automatic and manual watches.
The difference between mechanical and quartz watches
Mechanical watches transmit the power of the mainspring to the wheel train (a chain of gears), and control accuracy with a regulating escapement consisting of an escape wheel, anchor, balance, and hairspring.
On the other hand, quartz watches use a battery as their power source to oscillate a quartz oscillator, and an IC circuit drives a step motor with a precise one-second cycle. The rotor inside the step motor moves the gears connected to it one second at a time, and the wheel train moves in tandem with this.
Even mass-produced quartz watches that are automatically assembled can achieve high accuracy of about ±20 seconds per month, while some mechanical watches, even those that are hand-assembled and produced in small quantities, can achieve accuracy of about ±20 seconds per day.
The difference between automatic and manual winding
Mechanical watches are divided into automatic and manual winding watches depending on how the mainspring is wound.
The rotor (rotating weight) attached to an automatic movement is a semicircular plate that rotates freely in response to changes in posture when worn. This movement, through gears, automatically winds the mainspring.
Manual-winding watches do not have a rotor and the mainspring is wound by turning the crown. Automatic watches will not stop moving as long as you wear them, but the rotor has the disadvantage of making the movement heavier and thicker.
The appeal of hand-rolled sake
Hand-wound watches, which do not have a rotor, are superior to automatic watches in terms of design, comfort, and durability. Let's also touch on the appeal of the connoisseur's preference for using the crown.
The feeling of winding up
A manual winding watch will stop after a few days if you don't wind it up. It takes time, but winding it every day means you can spend more time with your watch.
This not only creates an attachment to the watch, but also has the benefit of making it easier to notice any malfunctions in the watch by winding it every day.
Furthermore, the pleasant vibrations and ticking sounds you feel when winding the watch are truly enjoyable. The feeling of interacting with the watch is an irresistible attraction for watch lovers.
The beauty of hand-wound watches
In automatic watches, the rotor covers a large part of the movement, but in hand-wound watches, there is less obstruction. Another advantage of hand-wound watches is that you can enjoy the beauty of the movement, although this is limited to models with transparent backs.
Furthermore, the lack of a rotor makes it easier to design a slim model, creating a clean, sleek look. It can also be fun to prioritize design and comfort over the convenience of an automatic watch.
The Lange 1 Time Zone, a model released in 2020 by A. Lange & Söhne, features a small time circle at the 4 o'clock position on the dial, allowing you to check the home time and a second time zone at a glance. It is equipped with the manual-winding Caliber L141.1. The see-through caseback allows you to see the German silver three-quarter plate and beautiful hand-engraved decorations. Manual-winding (Caliber L141.1). 38 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. 18KPG case (diameter 41.9mm, thickness 10.9mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price enquiries required. (Inquiries) A. Lange & Söhne Tel. 03-4461-8080
How to use and maintain a manual watch
Because manual winding watches require daily operation of the crown, it is important to be aware of mechanical malfunctions. Wind your watch moderately and comfortably every day, and have it overhauled as soon as you notice any malfunctions.
Pay attention to the direction and number of times you wrap it.
The crown winds the mainspring by turning it clockwise (to the right). Many models will not wind counterclockwise.
The number of turns required to fully wind the watch depends on the power reserve, but generally 20 to 30 turns are required. You can do it by turning it once, but it's best to get used to turning the crown clockwise and counterclockwise repeatedly while holding it in place.
If the crown becomes stiff and you can no longer wind it, stop the movement. Overwinding can cause damage. Also, to ensure the long life of your watch, it is best to wind it at the same time every day.
Reasons why you can't roll
Some highly water-resistant models have a "screw-down" crown. In this case, turn the crown counterclockwise to unlock it, then turn it clockwise to wind it.
If you can't wind your watch even though it's not screwed in, it may be due to clogging, rust, or lack of oil. Dirt and moisture can get into the crown, and the corroded waterproof gasket can get stuck.
The need for an overhaul
If you cannot turn the crown, it is possible that there is some kind of malfunction in the movement. While cleaning the inside of the watch may solve the problem, forcing the crown may damage the parts.
If the crown starts to move poorly or the winding efficiency decreases, it is time for an overhaul. During an overhaul, the watch will be disassembled, cleaned, oiled, and adjusted, and the waterproof gasket will also be replaced.
It is recommended that an overhaul be performed about once every three years, but to protect your precious watch, it is important to take action as soon as you notice anything unusual.
Enjoy the true pleasure of hand-rolled sushi
There's something about hand-wound watches that is appealing to connoisseurs, the daily care of a delicate mechanical timepiece, especially for those who appreciate the mechanics that make you want to operate a chronograph for no apparent reason.
Take care to make fine adjustments to avoid malfunctions, and if it seems to be in poor condition, have it overhauled to restore it to a healthy state from the inside.
