What materials are used for watch dials? Processing methods and manufacturing process

The dial, which can be said to be the face of a watch, has its own unique style depending on the brand, and the materials and processing methods used are extremely diverse. To gain a deeper understanding of the appeal of watches, let's take a look at the main materials and decorative techniques used for dials, as well as the manufacturing process.

Main materials used for dials

The dial, also known as the face, is a part of the watch that greatly influences its appearance. The dial has a base (metal), which is plated and decorated to create the face. First, let's look at the main materials used for the base metal and dial surface.

The most common material is brass

Brass is easy to cut and is the most commonly used material for dial plates. It is an alloy of copper and zinc, and depending on the mixing ratio, it can have a yellow color similar to gold.

The base metal is rarely exposed, and it is common to electroplate it with precious metals or layer different materials on top of each other.The dial is then finished with further decoration, polishing, and typesetting.

Natural materials such as shells

One of the natural materials used to decorate the dial is mother-of-pearl (MOP), which is a slice of the inner layer of the mother-of-pearl shell (nacre).

The dial surface is often made by slicing pearls such as pearl oysters (Akoya pearls), pearl oysters (White-lipped pearl oysters), and pearl oysters (Black-lipped pearl oysters) and attaching them to metal.

The metal is painted to create complex colors, and the surface is coated to maintain its strength. The unique luster that only natural materials can provide is what makes it so appealing.

Special materials such as gold

Precious metals such as gold and platinum, as well as precious stones such as rubies and diamonds, are also common materials in luxury watches. These luxury materials are often used to enhance the luxury of the watch and its value.

To improve functionality, more and more watchmakers are using materials such as carbon fiber and ceramics, and decorative techniques include applying enamel or spraying emery.

Dial design decoration and processing methods

The processing methods for dial design include cutting or embossing the base metal, and surface processing similar to painting a picture on a canvas. Let's take a look at some of the most common dial processing methods and decorative techniques.

Guilloching invented by Breguet

Until the end of the 18th century, guilloching was a decorative technique used on architecture and furniture. It was Abraham-Louis Breguet, a Swiss-born genius watchmaker active in France, who first applied it to dial decoration.

Guilloching is a technique that uses a manual lathe to create intricate, regular patterns that not only improve the legibility of the dial but also enhance its aesthetic appeal. The main motifs are the studded "clous de Paris," the wave-like "vague," and the radial sunburst.

The traditional technique is to apply guilloche engraving to a gold plate and then finish it with silver plating, but in recent years there have also been cases where guilloche engraving has been applied to mother-of-pearl.

Highly challenging enamel processing

Enameling, also known as "Shippo," is a technique in which a glaze is applied to a metal plate and then fired at temperatures of over 800°C. Over its long history dating back to pre-Christian times, the techniques have diversified, and watch dial decoration continues to evolve.

In cloisonné enamel, the painted surface is divided into sections using gold lines, while in champlevé enamel, a metal plate is engraved and then glaze is poured in and fired.

In addition, Grand Feu enamel is fired at over 1000°C, which allows for a more beautiful luster. It requires advanced techniques to adjust the temperature so that the glass does not crack during multiple firings and to achieve a uniform color.

Embossing and concentric processing

Embossing is a decorative technique that creates unevenness on the dial surface using a press or other tool. A uniform embossing across the entire dial is also called a block pattern or tapestry.

Concentric processing is a technique that carves concentric grooves or hairlines like a record. Both have a similar appearance to guilloche engraving on the surface, but the processing methods are different.

Dial manufacturing process

The dial manufacturing process varies depending on the brand and even the model. Here we'll look at some examples of dial manufacturing that feature subdials, apertures, and applied indices.

From processing to polishing

For models with subdials, a recess is first created in the metal using a special tool that applies tens of tons of pressure.

Next, the material is repeatedly heated and cooled to optimize its properties, and then punched out to the desired diameter for the dial. If a display window is to be included, the window is punched out at this stage as well.

Once the dial is deburred and polished to the required thickness, decorations such as guilloche engraving begin. After that, cutting and polishing are completed, and the base of the dial is complete.

Transfer and coloring

Once the dial base is complete, it is painted, usually by immersing the dial in an electrolytic bath and electroplating it. The dial is then covered with nickel or gold ions, and adjusting the color requires skilled techniques.

The painted dial is then treated with a clear lacquer to prevent oxidation, and elastic silicone rubber pads are then pressed onto it to transfer the logo and subdial numbers.

Once the zaponnage (surface protection with a transparent color) and decalculation (transfer) are complete, the indexes are attached to the dial. Depending on the model, luminous paint is applied to complete the dial.

Understanding the dial changes your perspective

The dial is the "face" of the watch, and its decoration and finish express the unique character of the brand.

To beautifully finish a small dial of about 40mm in diameter, the exceptional skills of artisans are required in all processes, including processing, polishing, coloring, and transfer printing.

Learn more about how watch dials are made and discover the appeal of watches.