This large-scale Swiss watch fair has a history of over 100 years, once serving as a venue for unveiling new products and securing orders for retailers. However, the spread of the internet, the desire of big brands to stick to their direct store strategies, and the heavy-handed approach of the former Baselworld management team have all come together to call into question the very existence of this large-scale exhibition. Then, just as the completely unexpected COVID-19 pandemic struck the world, how will the future of large-scale exhibitions change?
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http://www.webchronos.net/features/46128/
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan), Hiroyuki Suzuki
Bvlgari
New finishing techniques open up new possibilities for Finissimo
Bvlgari typically unveils new products, primarily for women, at Geneva Days every January. In 2020, the brand switched venues to Dubai, unveiling new products at LVMH Watch Week Dubai. The main focus was the women's Serpenti Seduttori, but the brand also unveiled a selection of attractive new products for men.
A highlight of 2020. It has a more luxurious appearance and high water resistance. The price is surprisingly attractive considering what's inside. Automatic (Cal. BVL138 Finissimo). 36 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 40mm, thickness 5.15mm). Water resistant to 100m. Estimated price: 127 million yen.
(left)Octo Finissimo Automatic Ceramic
This is a different specification from the 2019 model. It's basically fully polished, but the bracelet is partially satin, which cleverly emphasizes the three-dimensional effect. The basic specs are the same as the model on the right, but since the crown isn't screw-down, it's water resistant to 30m. Ceramic. Price: 1,679,000 yen (excluding tax).
The Octo Finissimo has become a Bvlgari icon. Since its launch, it has emphasized a matte finish, but in 2020, it has taken a complete turn, adopting a luxury sports watch-style finish. The mixed polished and satin finish appears to have been part of the product planning from the beginning. However, advances in case craftsmanship have undoubtedly made it easier. Previously, hand-polishing an Octo case was nearly impossible. The main focus is the Octo Finissimo Automatic Stainless Steel. Based on the sandblasted finish from 2018, this model features a satin and polished case and bracelet. The matte dial improves legibility, and the screw-down crown increases water resistance to 100m. While the bracelet has some sharp edges, the fit remains excellent, and the price is attractive.
This is the 18KPG version of this masterpiece. The reverberation chamber inside the case also produces a sound that is unusual for a thin repeater. Manual winding (Cal. BVL362). 36 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 42 hours. 18KPG (diameter 40mm, thickness 6.85mm). Water resistant to 30m. Estimated price: 19 million yen.
The 18K gold model also boasts a combination of satin and polished finishes, adding a touch of luxury. Water resistance has also been improved. Automatic (Cal. BVL138 Finissimo). 36 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. 18KPG (diameter 40mm, thickness 5.25mm). Water resistant to 100m. Estimated price: 239 million yen.
The ceramic version released in 2019 has been polished completely, with the exception of a small section of the bracelet. The change in finish clearly adds a touch of luxury. The buckle on this model is also more robust than the stainless steel version, making it less likely to be damaged even with rough use.
For women, we recommend the Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon, which boasts the smallest tourbillon available today. The carriage is made of sapphire, giving it the appearance of a flying tourbillon while also providing theoretical sturdiness.
This model is adorned with vibrant semi-precious stones, typical of Bulgari. The repeater sounds flawless. Manually wound (Cal. BVL362). 36 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 42 hours. 18K white gold with up to 4.1 carats of diamonds (diameter 37mm, thickness 9.40mm). Water resistant to 30m. Limited to 10 pieces worldwide. Estimated price: 20,111,000 yen.
A women's model featuring one of the world's smallest tourbillons. The carriage is supported by a sapphire bridge. Manual winding (Cal. BVL150). 23 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 40 hours. 18KRG + diamonds up to 2.88 ct (34mm length, 8.9mm thickness). Water resistant to 30m. Estimated price 8.5 million yen. (Inquiries) Bvlgari Japan Tel. 03-6362-0100
Rather than being novel, Bulgari stands out for its maturity. The sense of security that you can be sure you won't be disappointed no matter what you choose is a major attraction. (Masahiro Hirota: This magazine)
Hublot
The long-awaited integrated bracelet
Hublot, the company that silenced even crying children, has added a long-awaited bracelet version to its 2020 Big Bang collection. The previous bracelets, perhaps reflecting the company's lack of experience, were below par in terms of finish and comfort. However, the new model is extremely well-made, reflecting the company's long-awaited launch.
The long-awaited bracelet model. Lightweight and comfortable to wear. An extremely well-crafted model, including the edge treatment. Automatic (Cal. HUB1280). 43 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. Ceramic (diameter 42mm, thickness 13.45mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Limited to 500 pieces worldwide. 244 million yen (excluding tax).
(left)Big Bang Integral Titanium
The material of the right model is different. The pushers have been changed to the design of the 2005 model, and the screws that secure the "ears" have also been eliminated. Perhaps this is a redesign to appeal to a wider range of people. Personally, I think this is the best Integral model. The basic specifications are the same as the above model. Ti. 222 yen (excluding tax).
One of the reasons for the great success of Hublot's Big Bang was its interchangeable straps. While other manufacturers in the same price range maintained a conservative stance, Hublot was one of the first to offer interchangeable straps, and it gained support from people who viewed watches as fashion items. However, the adoption of interchangeable straps made it difficult to add a bracelet to the Big Bang. If an interchangeable bracelet were added to the already heavy Big Bang, the connection would easily wear out. This is why bracelets, like those on the Classic Fusion, were not widely adopted.
This new model features the Meca-10 movement, which has a power reserve of approximately 10 days. The display and other components have been redesigned to accompany the change to the case. It feels more comfortable to wear than the Big Bang. Manual-winding (Cal. HUB1233). 26 jewels. 21,600 vph. Ti (diameter 45mm, thickness 14.45mm). 5 bar water resistance. Price: 244 million yen (scheduled for release in August).
This is the final project with a Venezuelan artist. The painted disc changes appearance as it rotates. The basic specifications are the same as the model on the right. Limited to 100 pieces worldwide. Also available in Ti, 18K King Gold, and a 38mm case. Automatic (Cal. HUB1112). 25 jewels. Boutique-exclusive model. 138 million yen (excluding tax).
The 2020 Big Bang Integral is an attempt to abandon its distinctive interchangeable design and instead offer a superior bracelet. The heavy 18K gold bracelet was added, needless to say, because the bracelet is integrated into the case. The case was also redesigned to a single material, excluding the resin "ears," and the pushers and indices were redesigned to a more subdued design. Hublot likely wants to position this model as a classic luxury sports model. My impressions of the prototypes were that the titanium and ceramic models had good bracelet play and good balance between the head and tail. While the head is heavy, it's not bad balance at all. In contrast, the 18K gold model is quite head-heavy, which will likely be a matter of personal preference. In any case, it's difficult to judge the bracelet model without trying it out. If you're considering purchasing one, I highly recommend seeing it in store. (Masamasa Hirota: This magazine)
This model features a recrystallized gold crystal dial. Each is a unique piece. Also available in a 38mm case. Automatic (Cal. HUB1112). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 42 hours. Ceramic (diameter 45mm, thickness 10.95mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. Estimated price: 223 million yen (release date undecided).
This model is made of 18K King Gold. The bracelet is thinner than the watch itself, but it is a clever decision not to cut down on costs. It is a little head-heavy, but this is acceptable for Big Bang users. The basic specifications are the same as all Big Bang Integral models. 556 million yen (excluding tax). (Inquiries) LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan Hublot Tel. 03-5635-7055
