The Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II is a GMT watch developed by Rolex. New models are released every year, offering a wide variety of variations. The Ref. 126710GRNR, featuring a black and gray bezel, was released in 2024, and the Ref. 126729VTNR, featuring a ceramic dial and left-hand crown, was released in 2025. In this article, we will introduce the appeal of the GMT-Master II, its lineage from the original GMT-Master, and the current model lineup.
What is the Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II?
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II (hereafter referred to as the GMT-Master II) is a GMT watch that can tell the current time as well as a second and third time zone. We will provide an overview of the watch, including its history from its birth to the present day.
The successor to the professional pilot's watch
The GMT-Master II is a current collection that continues the lineage of the GMT-Master, a professional watch manufactured for international airline pilots from the 1950s to the 1990s.
The GMT-Master combines a movement with an additional 24-hour sub-hand and a rotating bezel that indicates day and night in red and blue, allowing it to display the time in two places simultaneously.
The successor to the GMT Master, the GMT Master II, has an independently adjustable hour hand, allowing you to keep track of the time in up to three different locations simultaneously with a simple operation.
Currently, it is used not only by international pilots, but also by business people and travelers who fly around the world.
From Pan American Airways to the GMT-Master II
The 1950s, after World War II, was a time when aviation technology developed and jet planes began flying around the world.
As the importance of knowing the exact time around the world began to grow, pilots began calling for watches that could show two different time zones.
Against this background, Pan American World Airways, which was the flagship carrier of the United States at the time, asked Rolex to manufacture a watch that could keep track of the time in two different places simultaneously.
In response to a request from Pan American World Airways, Rolex created the GMT-Master in 55.
The GMT Master was also adopted as the company's official watch, and in 1983 the GMT Master II, which could keep track of up to three time zones, was released. Production of the GMT Master ended in 1999, and all current models are GMT Master IIs.
The GMT-Master Lineage
Since the first model, four generations of the GMT-Master have been produced. Let's take a look at the characteristics of each.
First model Ref.6542
This is the first model of the GMT-Master, which was produced for about four years starting in 1955. Not only were only a few produced, but as it was the first model, it is highly prized.
The bezel plate is made of a phenolic resin material called Bakelite, which is the world's first artificial synthetic resin and is considered to be the beginning of artificial plastics.
Another feature of the Ref. 6542 is that it does not have a guard to protect the crown. The area around the crown is clean, giving it a more classic impression.
The movement is the Cal. 1036, which adds a 24-hour sub-hour hand to the Cal. 1030, developed by Rolex as one of the earliest bidirectional winding movements.
Second model Ref.1675
The Ref. 1675 was a long-selling model that was produced for a long period of time, from the late 1960s when production of the first model ended until around 1980.
The new model features a crown guard, which was not available on the Ref. 6542, and the luminous paint on the dial has been changed from radium to tritium. The movement is also the new Cal. 1570.
Because it was produced for a long period of time, it is relatively easy to obtain, and because it is reasonably priced, it is highly sought after in the antique market.
Another distinctive feature is that the details vary depending on the production period. Models with rare features, such as bezels and mirror dials that are only found on early models, are highly valued.
Third model Ref.16750
This is the third model of the GMT-Master, which debuted around 1980. Design-wise, there were no major changes from the Ref. 1675, but the later model's water resistance was increased from 50m to 100m.
The movement has been changed from Cal. 1570 to Cal. 3075. It is equipped with a quick-change calendar function, improving operability.
The watch has been upgraded to a high-beat specification, increasing its frequency from 19,800 vph to 28,800 vph, resulting in improved precision. Another attractive feature is the upgraded water resistance from 50m to 100m.
After its release, the index design was changed from borderless to bordered. The earlier borderless type was very popular due to its strong antique feel.
Final model: Reference 16700
This is the fourth generation GMT-Master model, which was released around 1988. The bezel is available in two types: a red and blue two-tone type and a black monotone type.
There are two types of bracelets: a three-link Oyster bracelet and a five-link Jubilee bracelet. The buckle underwent a minor change from a single lock to a double lock around 1995 to improve practicality.
The movement is Cal. 3175, and the balance cock has been changed from a single-arm to a double-arm type, improving stability and ease of maintenance.
Due to the influence of the GMT-Master II, which was released in 1983 prior to the debut of the final model, production of the original GMT-Master ceased in 99, marking the end of its history.
The Genealogy of the GMT-Master II
The GMT-Master II is a model that can simultaneously display the time in three different places. Let's take a look at how the GMT-Master II has evolved since the first model.
First model Ref.16760
This was the first GMT-Master II model produced. Since it was only produced for a short period from around 1982 to 1988, it is highly sought after as a rare model in the antique market.
The case is approximately 12.5mm thick, which is thicker than the GMT Master, and is why this model is sometimes referred to as the "Fat Lady."
Another major feature of the Ref. 16760 is that the bezel is only available in a two-tone red and black color.
The movement is the Caliber 3085, an upgraded version of the Caliber 3075 used in the Reference 16750. The independently operable hour hand makes it possible to simultaneously display the time in three different places.
Second model Ref.16710
The second model, produced from 1990 to 2007, had three bezel colors: red and black, and red and blue and black. The red and blue bezel was added when production of the final GMT-Master model, the Ref. 16700, was discontinued in 1999.
The Ref. 16713, a combination model of stainless steel and 18K yellow gold, features a dial set with rubies and diamonds, giving the second model a uniquely dazzling appearance.
The movement was changed from Cal. 3085 to Cal. 3185, and in 1999 the luminous paint was changed from self-emitting tritium to phosphorescent Luminova. Around 2003, a crown watermark was added to the crystal at 6 o'clock, and other minor changes were made to several parts.
In addition to stainless steel, several other materials are used, including solid yellow gold and a combination of stainless steel and 18K yellow gold. The stainless steel model, which comes with all three types of bezels, is the most popular second model.
Third model Ref.116710LN
The third generation GMT-Master II featured various improvements from the second model, including the Cal. 3186 movement, which featured a Parachrom hairspring with excellent anti-magnetic properties.
The indexes have been enlarged for improved visibility, and the crown guards and lugs have also been enlarged for increased robustness.
The bracelet is also characterized by its increased durability, with the link construction being changed from hollow to solid. The buckle is equipped with an Easy Link, allowing for easy fine adjustment.
The GMT hand not only displays the time but also functions as a compass, making it useful for outdoor activities such as mountain climbing.
Features and appeal of the GMT-Master II
What makes the GMT-Master II so highly rated? We will introduce its main features and appeal.
A unique movement that carries on tradition
The Rolex-exclusive movement installed in the GMT-Master has a history of evolution, inheriting accumulated know-how and undergoing repeated improvements that will go down in watchmaking history.
The Cal. 1500 series, which was installed in the second model of the original GMT-Master, is highly regarded historically as the foundation of automatic movements that continue to this day.
It then switched to the Cal. 3000 series, then evolved into the Cal. 3100 series, and in 2018 was introduced into the current Cal. 3200 series, which is equipped with the latest technology, and the design philosophy has been passed down through the generations.
It can be said that the current movement, which has achieved remarkable development, exists because of the foundation of automatic movements that was established with the Cal. 1500 series.
Highly rated
Manufactured for international airline pilots, the GMT-Master was highly acclaimed for its precision and robustness, as well as for being one of the first watches to display a second time using the bezel and a 24-hour sub-hand.
Combined with its excellent design, it has become known as a watch favored by celebrities around the world in the decades since its creation.
