Tracing the history of Grand Seiko, from its inception to its latest efforts

2021.04.10

Grand Seiko, known as Japan's top watch brand, began its history by taking on the watch kingdom of Switzerland. Learning about the steps it took to establish its position today will surely pique your interest in Grand Seiko.

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What is Grand Seiko?

What kind of brand is Grand Seiko, Seiko's luxury watch line? First, let's get a better understanding of the brand's overview and the first model.

A world-renowned Japanese luxury watch brand

Grand Seiko, positioned as the pinnacle of Japanese watch brands, is a domestic brand that can compete with Swiss luxury watch brands such as Omega and Rolex.

In addition to mechanical and quartz movements, Seiko offers models that are highly practical and functional, powered by Spring Drive, Seiko's unique drive mechanism.

The image of Grand Seiko as a watch of world-class quality, which it has built over its 60-year history, is one of its greatest attractions.

In 2018, the company took a step towards becoming a global brand by establishing a new company in the United States specializing in the sale of Grand Seiko.

The first model appeared in 1960

The first Grand Seiko

The first Grand Seiko was born from special adjustments based on the Crown released in 1959. The Caliber 3180 it is equipped with not only was Seiko's first to feature a second hand stop function and a regulator fine adjustment device, but also achieved a high level of precision equivalent to the superior grade standard of the Swiss chronometer inspection standard, which was considered the most accurate at the time.

Seiko released the first Grand Seiko model in 1960, aiming to create a domestically produced watch that could compete on an equal footing with the world.

Based on the Seiko Crown (manufactured in 59), a classic watch that has made its mark in the history of Japanese timepieces, the watch was further enhanced in performance by incorporating Seiko's first second hand regulation device and regulator fine adjustment device.

The first model was the first in Japan to achieve the same accuracy as the chronometer standard (excellent grade) established by the Swiss Official Rate Testing Bureau.

At the time of its release, it was priced at 25,000 yen, making it a luxury model that was more than double the starting salary of a senior national civil servant.


History of Grand Seiko Models

Let's look back at the history of the watch, focusing on turning points. You will be able to understand when the unique design philosophy was established and the evolution of mechanical development.

Establishing the Seiko style of design

44GS

The 44GS was the first Grand Seiko watch produced by Daini Seikosha (now Seiko Instruments), and established the "Seiko style." It is a masterpiece that embodies the Japanese aesthetic sense, with its beauty accentuated by straight lines, flat surfaces, light and shadow.

The 44GS, which debuted in 1967 with the theme of "a brilliantly shining watch," is a model that had a major influence on the exterior design of subsequent Grand Seiko models.

The style of the 44GS, which features nine design elements based on three design principles, will be passed down to successor models as Grand Seiko's design philosophy, the "Seiko Style."

Since the birth of the 44GS, many of the collections to date have been said to express Japanese beauty. This aesthetic sense and silhouette is the result of continuing to adhere to the Seiko style established with the 44GS.

9F, considered the world's best quartz

95GS

Grand Seiko went dormant in the 1970s, but was revived in 88 with the quartz model "95GS," equipped with a high-precision movement with an annual accuracy of ±10 seconds.

In 1969, Seiko became the first in the world to successfully miniaturize the previously large quartz mechanism so that it could fit into a wristwatch.

This technological revolution spread around the world under the model name "Quartz Astron," dealing a major blow to mechanical watch manufacturers known as the "Quartz Shock." However, Grand Seiko's mechanical watches also fell into disuse.

After a period of dormancy, the brand's first quartz movement model, the 95GS, was released in 88.

The "9F Quartz" movement used in this watch is a movement that achieves the highest level of precision, and 9F series quartz movements are still highly regarded today.

With the addition of quartz models, Grand Seiko made a spectacular comeback and once again made its name known to the world.

The third movement: Spring Drive

Spring drive

Grand Seiko's first Spring Drive model, released in 2004, is equipped with the caliber 9R65, which uses the Magic Lever system to improve winding efficiency and extends the power reserve to approximately 72 hours.

Spring Drive, which combines mechanical and quartz technology, is a third movement that combines the advantages of both.

The Spring Drive mechanism itself was first installed in Seiko and Credor watches in 1999, but after approximately four more years of research and development, it was adopted for Grand Seiko.

Caliber 9R65, which features an efficient automatic winding system and a power reserve of approximately 72 hours, debuted as Grand Seiko's first Spring Drive movement in 2004. Its groundbreaking mechanism astonished watchmakers around the world.

This power source continues to evolve and continues to receive high praise both at home and abroad.