Q: Is it true that there are many different types of enamel dials?
A: They can be broadly divided into two types.
Enamel dials, with their unique mirror finish and shine, are extremely attractive to some watch enthusiasts. There are two main types of enamel used in the watch industry.
So-called "real enamel" (cloisonné) is made by placing a glassy powder (glaze) on a metal plate and firing it. Because it is fired at a high temperature, it is also known as hot enamel. Recently, it has also been called Grand Feu. It gives a glossy appearance, but the yield is low and it is said to be extremely difficult to apply to three-dimensional or domed dials.
Photograph by Yu Mitamura
On the other hand, there are also enamels that are made by placing paint on a metal plate and firing it. It looks similar to hot enamel, but it is not covered with glass because it does not use a glaze. This is called soft enamel.
Hot enamel is difficult to handle
While there are many enthusiasts who prefer "real enamel," it can break if subjected to shock, and it can also crack over time. Furthermore, when hot enamel is applied to dials with a three-dimensional finish, such as guilloche, it is said that air bubbles are difficult to remove, making it difficult to achieve a good finish.
For this reason, some manufacturers choose to use soft enamel. One example is Bovet, which produces extremely high-quality dials using soft enamel.
Even luxury watches are sometimes made with soft enamel
Some models of Philippe Dufour's masterpiece "Simplicity" have enamel-like dials with Roman numerals. Surprisingly, these are made of soft enamel. Dufour explains that the reason for his choice is that "genuine enamel has become difficult to obtain these days." The quality of enamel produced by various companies has improved significantly, but in the past, many manufacturers and watchmakers chose soft enamel for its quality.
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