The Frontline of Extreme Watches (Part 2)

Taking on a harsh environment

Extreme watches are required to perform their mission of keeping time even in environments that make it difficult for the wearer to function, such as the unimaginable water pressures experienced at great depths and temperatures far below freezing. This time, we have selected and re-edited some of these extraordinary watches with cutting-edge specifications from articles in the German edition of Kronos to present to you. In addition to introducing extreme watches, this feature also looks at sponsorship activities for adventurers who venture into environments where these incredible specifications are actually required, as well as the efforts of brands to preserve the "mother nature" that serves as the stage for adventurers' challenges.

A watch for all tough guys.

The tool watches featured in this section are not for the faint of heart. Mastering these models is proof of your toughness and willingness to push the envelope.

Waterproof performance WATERPROOF

　Omega is known for its professional-grade diver's watches. The flagship model in the lineup is undoubtedly the Seamaster Ploprof. Ploprof is an abbreviation of the French term "plongeur professionnel," meaning professional diver. This eye-catching instrument was developed in the late 1960s in collaboration with professional divers, designed to withstand the most demanding conditions. Even in today's rapidly evolving world, the Ploprof boasts top-notch specifications. The water resistance of the massive case has been increased from 600m on the original to 1200m, and it is now crafted from lightweight, saltwater-resistant titanium. The bracelet features two cleverly designed quick-extension fasteners, and a pusher at 2 o'clock on the case unlocks the bidirectional rotating bezel. The in-house movement, featuring a highly efficient Co-Axial escapement, is also exceptional. Its components are made of non-magnetic materials, allowing for a transparent caseback while maintaining magnetic resistance.

SHOCK RESISTANCE

　A watch that withstood the world's highest level of competition on Rafael Nadal's wrist is sure to handle the rigors of tennis and other demanding activities with ease. This is true even for models featuring a complex tourbillon, which is generally considered delicate. Richard Mille achieved exceptional shock resistance by integrating a skeletonized baseplate and caseband made of Carbon TPT®, a material that is resistant to shocks and breakage. The bezel and caseback are made of Quartz TPT®, a material that is resistant to impacts and heat. These materials are manufactured through a complex process that involves separating, laminating, and heating. The laminated structure reveals a unique pattern on the surface when milled. This means that of the 50 pieces sold, each one is unique in the world.

SCRATCH RESISTANCE

　DLC coating is a popular method for making stainless steel and titanium cases scratch-resistant. DLC stands for diamond-like carbon, meaning carbon with a composition similar to that of diamond. This surface treatment not only makes the case extremely hard, but its black color also gives it a sporty appearance. One successful example is Breitling's Avenger Chronograph 45 Night Mission. While designed like a pilot's watch, it also has the characteristics of a diver's watch, such as a unidirectional rotating bezel and 300m water resistance.

　From a purely scratch-resistant standpoint, no watch case material beats ceramic. However, there are some caveats: This high-tech material, while scratch-resistant, is vulnerable to strong impacts and may chip if dropped on a hard surface. However, experienced luxury watchmakers will likely enjoy a ceramic model like the IWC Pilot's Watch Automatic Top Gun for years to come, remaining scratch-free. The soft-iron inner case encasing the movement also provides anti-magnetic properties, improving the durability of the internal mechanism.

TEMPERATURE RESISTANCE

　Although it is not widely known, some Omega models use a special oil in their movements that does not freeze even at temperatures between -55 and -40°C (freezing point -30°C). To prove the high temperature resistance of models using this oil, Omega's magazine, OMEGA LIFETIME, conducted a test in which a Seamaster Planet Ocean Master Chronometer was placed in a freezer and left at -70°C for four hours. As expected, the oil solidified at -70°C, preventing the watch from functioning. However, after thawing naturally, the watch resumed operation without any problems. Furthermore, no degradation was observed in the oil once it had solidified.

　Thanks to its high-tensile titanium case, this instrument watch is both lightweight and durable, and its surface treatment technology, known as "TEGIMENT," makes it extremely scratch-resistant. Another valuable feature, along with its scratch-resistant surface, is its resistance to temperature changes. Sinn conducted long-term endurance tests in an environmental testing chamber, demonstrating that the movement functions flawlessly even in extreme temperatures ranging from -45°C to +80°C. Sinn's proprietary Ar-Dehumidifying Technology also ensures that the crystal remains fog-free, even during extreme temperature changes, ensuring readability in any environment. Water resistance to 20 bar and resistance to negative pressure, essential for high-altitude flight, are key test items for the TESTAF certification, a technical standard for pilot watches. TESTAF is a standard for pilot watches established primarily by Sinn.

　Another distinctive feature of this watch is the countdown pilot's bezel. The rotating bezel is secured in place with a special fastening system to prevent it from becoming lost. This frequently used and most exposed part is protected from scratches by a sapphire crystal covering the bezel ring. Thanks to numerous technological advancements in the case construction, Sinn has created a watch ideal not only for use in the cockpit, but also on land in cold climates, near heat sources, and in areas where there is a risk of contact with hard equipment or rock. At just 12mm thick, the watch is suitable for a wide range of uses, including calf leather, silicone, and a TEGIMENT-processed titanium bracelet.