Mastering Breguet: Timeless Style of Breguet (Part 2)

2020.08.04

The "Golden Age" of Marines

The Marine, which was launched in 1990, was reborn as a new collection in 2004 with an emphasis on a sporty look, and 14 years later in 2018, it underwent another full model change. The completely new design was released in three different versions: three-hand, chronograph, and alarm. Furthermore, in 2020, following the titanium bracelet model, all gold models were equipped with bracelets. The heavy gold material dramatically enhanced the sense of luxury, ushering in a literal "golden age" for the Marine.

Photographs by Eiichi Okuyama
Text by Shigeru Sugawara

 The new generation Marine, now in its third generation since the first model was released in 1990, was given a full model change in 2018, and a new, innovative design was adopted that was different from the previous model.

 What is immediately apparent are the details of the dial that make up the face of the watch: luminous Roman numerals, Breguet hands, the accent on the second hand that expresses Breguet's initials as the letter "B" of the international maritime signal flag, and guilloched wave patterns that symbolize the sea. The classic Breguet design codes have been modernized, transforming into a sporty and informal design while retaining a hint of elegance.

 Along with the dial, the shape of the case and lugs is perhaps the most carefully considered aspect of Breguet's development of the new Marine. The new case is characterized by thick central lugs that protrude from both the top and bottom, and the strap is firmly secured by a cylindrical bar inspired by a ship's mooring gear. The shape of these striking central lugs is clearly reminiscent of the central links of a bracelet. This fact suggests that the new Marine must have been designed with a bracelet watch in mind from the start.

 In the luxury sports watch sector, where high-end watch brands are focusing their efforts, bracelets integrated into the case have long been a focus of attention. The bracelet is not merely an accessory for attaching the watch to the wrist; in the world of luxury sports watches, it is required to have a unique design, functionality, and a high-quality feel. Of course, Breguet is well aware of this.

Marine 5517

The simplest of the new generation "Marine" models is the automatic three-hand "5517," but the design of the "Marine" stands out thanks to the bracelet that smoothly transitions from the case to the case, enhancing its distinctive sporty look. Enjoy Breguet luxury in any situation, including everyday wear.

Marine 5517

Marine 5517
The titanium (right) is slate gray with a sunburst finish, the rose gold (center) is silver with a wave-patterned guilloched pattern, and the white gold (left) is blue with the same wave-patterned guilloched pattern. The dial color and decoration vary depending on the material, giving each a different impression. Automatic movement (Cal. 777A). 26 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 55 hours. Diameter 40mm, thickness 11.5mm. Water resistant to 10 bar. The Ti model is 216 million yen, while the 18KRG and 18KWG models are 531 million yen each.

Marine Chronographe 5527

Of the new-generation Marine collection, the chronograph "5527" is likely to be of interest to enthusiasts from a technical standpoint. This model is equipped with the in-house Cal. 582QA movement, updated with the latest technology. Its sophisticated mechanism and sophisticated design are further enhanced by the new bracelet.

Marine Chronograph 5527

Marine Chronograph 5527
The bracelet models available in different materials are: the white gold with a blue dial with guilloched wave pattern (left), the rose gold with a silver dial with guilloched wave pattern (center), and the titanium with a slate gray dial with a sunburst finish (right). Automatic movement (Cal. 582QA). 28 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 48 hours. Diameter 42.3mm, thickness 13.85mm. Water resistant to 10 bar. The 18KWG and 18KRG models are priced at 6.1 million yen each. The Ti model is priced at 261 million yen.

Marine Alarme Musicale 5547

One of the three pillars of the "Marine" collection is a travel watch that combines Breguet's original complicated functions with practicality. Its complex movement, which combines a chiming alarm function with a second time zone display, is truly unique. Now available with a gold bracelet, its unique character symbolizes the maritime theme and global travel.

Marine Alarm Musical 5547

Marine Alarm Musical 5547
Bracelet models with different materials. The rose gold version features a silver dial with guilloched wave pattern (left), the white gold version features a blue dial with guilloched wave pattern (center), and the titanium version features a slate gray dial with a sunburst finish (right). Automatic movement (Cal. 519F/1). 36 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 45 hours. Diameter 40mm, thickness 13.05mm. Water resistant to 5 bar. The 18KWG and 18KRG versions are priced at 653 million yen each. The Ti version is priced at 337 million yen.

 When the revamped model was announced in 2018, the new Marine first launched with a choice of three case materials—titanium, white gold, and rose gold—combined with rubber and alligator straps, but the following year, bracelet models were introduced for all titanium three-hand, chronograph, and alarm models. The three-row bracelet features a delicate hairline finish on the flat surfaces of the titanium and a polished finish on the rounded chamfers, making it perfectly integrated with the case for a beautiful appearance and a light, comfortable fit. It also boasts practical ingenuity, with all links disassembling for easy cleaning and finishing on a link-by-link basis during maintenance.

 Following the titanium model, in 2020, all gold three-hand, chronograph, and alarm models were added with bracelet options. While the white gold case with a blue dial and the rose gold case with a silver dial remain unchanged, each model is now fitted with a gold bracelet made of the same material as the case. The uniquely shaped lugs seamlessly integrate the three-row bracelet with the case, creating a sense of substantiality while still fitting comfortably on any wrist. The flat hairline finish, polished bevels, and the ability to disassemble all links are identical to the titanium bracelets.

 With the introduction of these bracelet models, the Marine now offers a full range of three-hand, chronograph, and alarm options, making it an attractive choice for anyone who appreciates luxury sports watches.

The dial of the gold model is guilloched with a new pattern that evokes waves, inspired by the sea, and this is achieved using the latest machine. The irregular, wave-like curves were difficult to achieve with conventional machines, but the new machine can now carve such complex patterns. This is another example of innovation that respects Breguet's traditions.

Marine Haute Joailerie 9509 Poseidonia

The Marine collection also includes a new high jewelry model for women, lavishly decorated with precious gemstones. Its name is "Poseidonia." The dial, inspired by a precious species of seaweed native to the Mediterranean, features colorful gemstones and mother-of-pearl in a symbolic arabesque pattern. The diamonds that fill the case are also the height of luxury. The marine theme is poetically depicted using the sophisticated art of craftsmanship.

Marine High Jewelry 9509 Poseidonia

Marine High Jewelry 9509 Poseidonia
The motif of seaweed swaying on the ocean floor is inspired by Posidonia oceanica, known as "nature's treasure." The dial is exquisitely crafted using mother-of-pearl marquetry. The bezel features a stunning gradation of diamonds, sapphires in various colors, including blue, amethysts, and tsavorites. Automatic movement (Cal. 591C). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 38 hours. 18KWG (diameter 35.8mm, thickness 10.46mm). Price: 27,720,000 yen.

The fluted case band and crown are also covered in baguette-cut diamonds, the 18K gold rotor is set with Tahitian mother-of-pearl, and 31 diamonds are arranged like pearls around the semicircular edge, making the mechanical movement visible through the case back a magnificent piece of jewelry.

Poseidonia has released four different types with different baguette-cut gemstones. In addition to the model with sapphire as the main stone above, there is also the all-diamond model (right) priced at 2993 million yen, the model with ruby ​​as the main stone and diamonds and various colors of sapphire (center) priced at 2772 million yen, and the model with emerald as the main stone and tsavorite, diamonds and various colors of sapphire (left) priced at 2993 million yen. The buckle, like the bezel, is also decorated with a gradation of diamonds or gemstones.


Contact info: Breguet Boutique Ginza ☎03-6254-7211

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