There are countless things that were originally developed for military use and later spread to civilian use, such as the Jeep, which was derived from a military vehicle, the Global Positioning System (GPS), and the Internet. The same is true of wristwatches. Here we introduce five military watches that originated as watches made for soldiers on the ground, in the sea, and in the air.
Text by Mark Bernardo
Articles published in March 2020
Blancpain "Fifty Fathoms Automatic"

Automatic (Cal. 1151). 28 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 96 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 40.3 mm). Water resistant to 300 m. Sold out. (Inquiries) Blancpain Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-6254-7233
The Fifty Fathoms, released in 1953, is known as the ancestor of the modern diver's watch. It was developed by Blancpain's then-CEO, Jean-Jacques Pfister, a diver himself, with input from Captain Robert Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud of the French Navy. After its completion, it was used by navies around the world.
The Fifty Fathoms Automatic pictured here is a limited edition model released in 2017. It is a reproduction of the Mil-Spec 1 watch released in 1957 and delivered to the U.S. Navy.
A notable feature is the large disc at 6 o'clock, which changes color from white to red when liquid enters the case. The case is water resistant to 300m, an upgrade from the original model's 91.45m (50 fathoms). Inside is Blancpain's in-house automatic movement, the Cal. 1151, which produces a power reserve of approximately 96 hours from its linked twin barrels.
Only 500 bottles were released and they have already sold out.
Tudor Black Bay P01

Automatic movement (Cal. MT5612). 26 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 42mm). 200m water resistant. 388,000 yen (excluding tax). (Inquiries) Rolex Japan / Tudor Tel. 03-3216-5671
Tudor, which had been supplying diver's watches to the U.S. Navy since the 1950s, began developing a diver's watch in 67 to replace the discontinued Oyster Prince Submariner, Ref. 7928. The prototype of this diver's watch was codenamed "Commando" and was the original model of the Black Bay P01.
The Black Bay P01 shares many features with the Commando, including a 42mm stainless steel case, a crown at 4 o'clock, and a bidirectional rotating bezel that can be unlocked by removing the end rings.
The matte black dial features luminous indexes and the "snowflake hands" that have been used in Tudor diver's watches since 69. The case is water resistant to 200m.
The movement is the automatic Caliber MT5612, with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours, a silicon balance spring, and a free-sprung balance. The Black Bay P01 comes with a strap made of brown leather with a rubber base. The clasp has the same satin finish as the prototype.
Bremont "Armed Force Broadsword"

Automatic movement (Cal. BE-95-2AV). 31 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 38 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 40mm). Water resistant to 100m. Not available in Japan.
Developed in partnership with the UK Ministry of Defence, the Arms Forces collection draws its inspiration from the Dirty Dozen, made for the British Army during World War II.
This is Bremont's first military watch available for civilian purchase, and the case back also features the Royal Navy, Army, and Air Force (RAF) crest, another first for the brand. Like the watches used during wartime, this watch meets the rigorous standards of the battlefield, including high water resistance, nighttime legibility, and chronometer-certified accuracy.
The Armed Forces Broadsword pictured here follows the look of the classic "field watch" that the Dirty Dozen had, with a simple 40mm diameter two-part hardened stainless steel case, a date display at 3 o'clock, hour and minute hands, and a small seconds dial.
The white Arabic numerals and hour and minute hands on the black dial are coated with mint-colored Super-LumiNova. The automatic movement, Cal. BE-95-2AV, is COSC-certified as a chronometer, but its power reserve is only about 38 hours.
Longines Avigation Type A-7 1935

Automatic (Cal. L788). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 54 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 41.0 mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 412,000 yen (excluding tax). (Inquiries) Longines Tel. 03-6254-7350
The Longines Avigation Type A-7 1935, part of Longines' Heritage Collection, is a reproduction of the watch that Longines supplied to US military pilots in 1935.
Like the original, it is made to meet strict standards for precision, legibility, and robustness, and the dial is tilted 40 degrees toward the 3 o'clock position, allowing the pilot in the cockpit to check the time without taking their hands off the control stick.
Vintage elements can be seen in the large, highly visible Arabic numerals, cobra hands, and railway minute track on the outer periphery. The case is made of stainless steel with a 41mm diameter and is fitted with a large onion-shaped crown that makes it easy for pilots to operate while wearing gloves.
The watch is equipped with the Longines-exclusive movement, Cal. L788, based on the ETA A08.L11. This caliber is a monopusher chronograph with a column wheel mechanism. The watch is presented on a brown alligator strap with a steel buckle.
Panerai Submersible Verde Militare – 42mm

Automatic (Cal. OPXXXIV). 23 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 42mm). Water resistant to 30 bar. Limited to 500 pieces worldwide. 960,000 yen (excluding tax). (Inquiries) Officine Panerai Tel. 0120-18-7110
While many Panerai models are descendants of early diving watches made for the Italian Navy during World War II, the Submersible series originated with the Egiziano, made for the Egyptian Navy in the 1950s.
The Submersible Verde Militare – 42mm (PAM01055) is the first Submersible to feature green (Verde means green in Italian, Panerai's native language).
The 42mm satin-finished stainless steel case features a unidirectional rotating bezel and Panerai's patented bridge-type crown guard, which ensures the safety of the screw-down crown (as well as water resistance to 300m).
The dial indexes and hands appear bright blue-green in the dark or in the deep sea, and behind the dial runs the in-house movement Cal. OPXXXIV, which provides a power reserve of approximately 72 hours when the single barrel is fully wound.
The case is 14.37mm thick thanks to the adoption of a movement originally used in the Luminor Due, an exceptionally thin model for Panerai. The watch is presented on a green rubber strap with a brushed steel clasp.

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