GMT, which displays two or three time zones simultaneously, is a popular watch mechanism. Among the many GMT watches offered by various brands, we will introduce five recommended models from Grand Seiko, a luxury Japanese watch brand.
Recommended Grand Seiko GMT Models
As the COVID-2 pandemic eases, restrictions on international travel have been eased. Many readers are likely planning more business trips and trips abroad. Even without physically traveling, we can still communicate with overseas companies and people via the internet. While we're becoming closer psychologically to other countries, time zones still exist. When traveling to or communicating with regions with different time zones, a model equipped with a GMT function that allows you to easily keep track of a second time zone is practical. If you're thinking of buying a GMT watch, why not consider a high-end Japanese brand? This article introduces Grand Seiko's GMT models, touching on the features of the GMT function and the appeal of Grand Seiko.
What is the GMT function?
One of the most convenient features of a watch is the GMT function. This is especially useful for users who frequently engage in international business or travel abroad. Let's take a look at an overview of the GMT function and how to operate Grand Seiko GMT models.
Ability to display another time zone
The GMT function allows the watch to display two or three time zones simultaneously by using, in addition to the regular hands, a GMT hand that rotates once every 24 hours and a rotating bezel with a 24-hour display.
The hour, minute, and second hands indicate the current time, while the GMT hand and rotating bezel indicate a second time zone. This makes it possible to check the time in your home country or business location at the same time as the local time, making it useful for a wide range of situations, from business to investment and travel.
How to operate GMT
グランドセイコーのGMT機能を組み込んだムーブメントには、機械式にCal.9S66とCal.9S86、クォーツ式にCal.9F86、スプリングドライブ式にCal.9R66とCal.9R86、そしてCal.9R96がある。
Both the current time and the second time zone are adjusted by operating the crown.
First, adjust the GMT and minute hands. With the second hand at the 0-second position, pull the crown out two notches to set the time. Next, pull it out one notch and set the hour hand to the current time.
To correct the time difference, there is no need to stop the watch. Simply pull out the crown one notch and turn it clockwise to change the time difference by -1 hour, or counterclockwise to change the time difference by +1 hour.
Additionally, models with a rotating bezel can also display a third time zone simultaneously.
If the time difference between the second time zone and the third time zone is +6 hours, rotate the ▽ mark (24 o'clock position) on the rotating bezel counterclockwise by 6 notches. The time on the inner bezel indicated by the GMT hand will then be the second time zone, and the time on the rotating bezel indicated by the GMT hand will be the third time zone.
5 Recommended Models with GMT Functions
The additional mechanisms used by Grand Seiko are primarily chronographs and GMTs, and their careful design, which preserves the brand's traditions, is what makes them so appealing. Here we introduce five GMT models that hint at the development of Grand Seiko.
"Elegance Collection" Ref.SBGJ251
In 2021, Grand Seiko released four models inspired by the 24 solar terms under the theme "THE NATURE OF TIME." This model represents one of those four, the vernal equinox. Automatic movement (Cal. 9S86). 37 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 55 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 39.5mm, thickness 14.1mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Priced at 1,001,000 yen (tax included).
The Ref. SBGJ251 joined the "Elegance Collection" in 2020. This year marks the 60th anniversary of Grand Seiko's founding, and the brand has released new models themed around "THE NATURE OF TIME." Among the new models released in line with this theme, four models were released that were inspired by the 24 solar terms, which divide the year into 24 equal parts and serve as a guide for the changing of the seasons. The Grand Seiko GMT watch we recommend this time is a model that represents the vernal equinox, one of the 24 solar terms.
The highlight of this model is the dial, which is inspired by mountain cherry blossoms that bloom quietly deep in the mountains, far from civilization. The pink gold GMT hand, which stands out against the green dial with its unique pattern, evokes the arrival of spring as the mountain cherry blossoms bloom, and the fact that the GMT hand is the only one with a different color also contributes to high readability.
"Sports Collection" Ref.SBGJ237
When you think of Grand Seiko, you might imagine a simple design suited to business settings. However, since 2017, the brand has been actively adding sports watches to its lineup. This model is no exception, as it is a powerful and sporty piece. The bezel is made of sapphire crystal. Automatic movement (Cal. 9S86). 37 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve: approximately 55 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 44.2mm, thickness 14.4mm). Water resistant to 20 bar. 990,000 yen (tax included).
The Ref. SBGJ237 is one of the watches in the "Sports Collection" that features a large case with a diameter of 44.2mm and a thickness of 14.4mm. The offset crown at 4 o'clock prevents interference with the back of the hand while wearing the watch, a style also seen in Seiko's diver's watches.
In addition to the GMT function, it is also water resistant to 20 bar, making it highly practical. The rotating bezel that displays the third time zone is made of sapphire crystal and has a two-tone blue and white color, making it easy to instantly tell whether it is day or night.
"Heritage Collection" Ref.SBGN027
This model has a basic design among quartz GMT watches. Its Cal. 9F86 movement was newly developed to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the birth of the 9F Quartz movement. Its simple, highly legible dial conveys the essence of Grand Seiko's commitment to practicality. Quartz (Cal. 9F86). Accuracy ±10 seconds per year. Stainless steel case (39mm diameter, 12.3mm thick). Price: 473,000 yen (tax included).
The Heritage Collection's "SBGN027" is a stylish quartz watch with a black dial and silver hands and indexes. By incorporating a second time zone display into the dial, the display elements of the dial are neatly organized without any unnecessary elements.
The "four-axis independent guide structure" allows the four hands to move smoothly without interfering with each other, and time difference correction can be done independently with just the hour hand without stopping the watch.
With a case diameter of 40mm, it is a watch that is perfect for both business and casual occasions.
"Evolution 9 Collection Spring Drive GMT" Ref. SBGE283
This GMT watch is part of the "Evolution 9 Collection" of authentic sports watches, and is equipped with the Spring Drive movement Cal. 9R66. Automatic Spring Drive (Cal. 9R66). 30 jewels. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 41mm, thickness 13.9mm). 10 bar pressure. Price: 1,177,000 yen (tax included).
In 2020, Grand Seiko launched the Evolution 9 Collection, featuring a new design grammar. This design grammar is based on the Seiko style, but further pursues ease of use and beauty in watches. This authentic sports watch retains the excellent wearability and legibility that the Evolution 9 Collection values, as well as the distortion-free surfaces and sharp edges created by Zaratsu polishing.
The metallic GMT hand stands out against the black dial, and the three-dimensional indexes and powerful hands create a complex glow.
With an average monthly deviation of ±15 seconds, a power reserve of up to approximately 72 hours, and a power reserve indicator at the 7 o'clock position, this is a reliable GMT model that will be useful in any situation.
"Sports Collection" Ref.SBGE248
This GMT features a striking contrast reminiscent of the morning sun rising over the horizon. The deep blue dial features a sunray finish, and the bezel is made of sapphire crystal, giving it a lustrous finish. This is a watch that will add a touch of elegance to any jet-setter's wrist. Grand Seiko "SBGE248" automatic Spring Drive (Cal. 9R66). 30 jewels. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 44mm, thickness 14.7mm). Price: 1,837,000 yen (tax included).
The Ref. SBGE248 from the "Sports Collection" is an elegant Spring Drive GMT with a beautiful contrast between gold and blue.
The bezel and crown are made of 18K yellow gold, and the bezel is fitted with a ring-shaped cutout blue sapphire crystal.
The case diameter is large at 44mm, but this model also has the crown at 4 o'clock instead of 3 o'clock, which is also noteworthy for its less strain on the wrist. It has an elegant finish that is perfect for travel as well as business situations.
Column 1: The origins of Grand Seiko and its advanced technology
Grand Seiko, which celebrated its 60th anniversary in 2020, is a luxury watch brand that Japan is proud of and is expanding its presence in the global market. Let's take a look at Grand Seiko's history and its movements, which boast outstanding performance.
The History of Grand Seiko
In 1960, Seiko released the first Grand Seiko, aiming to create the finest domestically produced watch that could rival luxury Swiss watches.
The following year, competition intensified due to the relaxation of import tariffs, but Grand Seiko continued to evolve in pursuit of the precision and functionality worthy of a luxury watch.
In 1967, Seiko released the 44GS, a highly accurate hand-wound watch that would become the foundation of the "Seiko Style." In 88, they released the 95GS, a quartz watch with an annual accuracy of ±10 seconds. In 2004, they released the Spring Drive, an automatic watch with a power reserve of up to approximately 72 hours.
Grand Seiko, which has gained global recognition and increased sales in overseas markets, became independent from Seiko in 17 and is aiming for even greater heights as a brand specializing in luxury watches.
Three types of movements equipped with unique technologies
Grand Seiko uses three different drive systems: 9S Mechanical, 9F Quartz, and 9R Spring Drive, all of which are designed to be highly functional.
The 9S Mechanical is manufactured in-house, even down to the balance spring, using the precision machining technology MEMS (Micro Electro Mechanical Systems) method, achieving high accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds per day, which complies with the Grand Seiko standard, a higher standard than the Swiss chronometer standard. Furthermore, there are models that meet the Grand Seiko Special (GSS) standard, which exceeds this standard by +4 to -2 seconds per day.
The 9F quartz movement uses only quartz oscillators that have been aged for three months, and while it is running, it also measures the temperature 540 times a day to correct any errors. It overcomes the weakness of quartz watches, which is their low torque, and is equipped with a "twin pulse control motor" that turns the heavy, thick hands, and a "backlash auto-adjust mechanism" that stabilizes the movement of the second hand.
The 9R Spring Drive combines the powerful torque of a mechanical mainspring with the precision control of a quartz IC and crystal oscillator. Another highlight of this mechanism is the smooth sweep movement of the second hand.
Column 2: Features of Grand Seiko
The essence of Grand Seiko watch design is established by its unique "Seiko Style." Although there are few differences in design as a result, since the company became independent in 2017, unprecedented challenges have been seen.
Let's take a look at the design, practicality, and brand image that characterize Grand Seiko, primarily from a traditional perspective.
High design quality
A distinctive feature of Grand Seiko's design is the "Seiko Style," a design code established with the 44GS in 1967, which features flat, easy-to-read, and beautiful designs.
The case is carefully prepared using "Zaratsu polishing" before being given a mirror finish, creating a high-quality, luxurious feel without being flashy.
The bands are often stainless steel bracelets or crocodile straps, and the overall design is highly compatible with business settings.
Practical functional beauty
Grand Seiko pursues the essence of a watch: beauty combined with practicality.
These include a highly visible dial, a highly accurate movement, and a chronograph function that is less likely to be operated accidentally.
The company has also focused on extending the power reserve, with the 9S Mechanical reaching a maximum of approximately 80 hours and the 9R Spring Drive reaching a maximum of approximately 192 hours (approximately 8 days), aiming to create a luxury watch that can be used with peace of mind for a long time.
One of the leading brand images in Japan
Grand Seiko was born with the aim of creating the finest domestically produced watch, and became an independent luxury watch brand in 2017, celebrating its 60th anniversary in 20.
Grand Seiko has always sought the highest standards of quality in the basic design of its movements and components, and its precision and mechanisms are sometimes even rated higher than those of luxury Swiss watches.
Since becoming independent, the brand has become more conscious of overseas markets, releasing many models priced at over several million yen, and its value as a luxury brand that is recognized worldwide is increasing.
