Patek Philippe's flagship collection, the Calatrava, is a masterpiece that is said to be the origin of modern wristwatches. Its timeless style, which began with the Ref. 96, continues to fascinate people today. Let's take a look at its appeal and noteworthy models.
Patek Philippe, the world's top watch brand
Renowned as the pinnacle of dress watches and a model of wristwatch design, the Calatrava is the flagship collection of Patek Philippe, known as the world's finest watch brand.
The value of Patek Philippe is impossible to overstate, but here we will look at the artistic side of the manufacture and the birth of the Calatrava, which has its roots in the Ref. 96.
Patek Philippe, founded in Geneva in 1839
Patek Philippe was founded in Geneva, one of the centers of Swiss watchmaking, in 1839. At the time, watches were wound with a key, but in 1845 they obtained a patent for the technology of a watch that was wound and set with a crown. At the Great Exhibition in London in 1851, they received praise from Queen Victoria of England.
From then on, the company added royalty and aristocrats from around the world to its client list and began producing timepieces that could be called ultra-luxury works of art.
The company, which thoroughly pursues the highest quality in everything from parts manufacturing to polishing and decoration, has promised to repair all timepieces produced since its founding, earning it the immense trust of watch enthusiasts.
Calatrava, one of the classic models
Patek Philippe fell into financial difficulties due to the Great Depression that began in 1929, but in 32 the dial manufacturer Stern family acquired the company.
The Ref. 96 was released in the same year. Prior to this, wristwatches were in their infancy, and models borrowed designs from pocket watches were the norm, but the Ref. 96's elegant design, which integrated the case and lugs, established the "golden ratio" for wristwatches.
The Ref. 96 series was later integrated into the "Calatrava" collection, a name derived from the company's logo, the "Calatrava cross."
The characteristics of the Calatrava, the classic round watch
During the transitional period when portable watches were changing from pocket watches to wristwatches, the Ref. 96 set a design model, and its lineage has been passed down through the Calatrava.
Let's take a look at the Calatrava design that shaped modern wristwatch style and its relationship to the Calatrava cross, Patek Philippe's logo.
Simple and sophisticated design
Calatrava's first model, the Ref. 96, featured a round case with a flat bezel, highly visible three-dimensional dauphine hands, and bar indexes, combining elegance and practicality.
The dial is free of unnecessary elements, and the lugs are welded to the middle case, making them both elegant and strong. The leather strap is also quite thick compared to the case size.
The timeless beauty and elegance of the Ref. 96's refined style is a common feature of the current Calatrava collection, and this is why the Calatrava is regarded as the pinnacle of dress watches.
Historic cross emblem
Patek Philippe watches feature the Calatrava cross engraved on the crown and rotor. This logo, registered as a trademark in 1887, symbolizes the values and corporate philosophy of Patek Philippe.
The Order of Calatrava, founded in Spain in the 12th century, used four fleur-de-lis (or swords) as its coat of arms. The symbols of courage, courtesy, and independence, as well as the beauty of the coat of arms' perfect balance, are in line with the values pursued by Patek Philippe.
The Calatrava Cross was born from an adaptation of this coat of arms, and the Calatrava collection, which has its roots in the Ref. 96, best expresses the essence of the Calatrava Cross.
How to Choose a Calatrava from the 12 Current Models
The Calatrava has its roots in the Ref. 96, but other round case models have also been integrated into the Calatrava, evolving in parallel. There are currently 12 models for both men and women. Let's take a look at some points to compare to help you choose the one that best suits your needs.
The movement is either manual or automatic
The current Calatrava models are equipped with either manual or automatic movements, and are basically two-hand models.
The PS in the caliber name means it has a small second hand, C means it has a simple calendar (date display), and S means it has a center second hand.
The manual-winding models are equipped with either the Cal. 215 or the Cal. 215 PS. The former is a simple two-hand model, while the latter has a small seconds hand at 6 o'clock. The advantage of the manual-winding model is its thin case, measuring less than 8mm thick.
If it is an automatic movement, it will be equipped with either the Cal. 324 SC or the Cal. 240. The Cal. 324 SC model is a three-hand model with a center second hand and a date display at 3 o'clock.
Rugs that define the design
Most of the 12 current models feature lugs that are integrated with the middle case, as in the Ref. 96, and can be broadly divided into smoothly curved and straight types. The latter type is currently used in the ladies' models.
There are also differences in the bezel design
The Calatrava also comes in a variety of bezel designs, with current models offering flat bezels, curved bezels, or bezels set with diamonds.
The flat bezel is the traditional style adopted for the Ref. 96. The curved type for men also uses a stepped bezel.
Pay attention to the case size and material
In terms of case diameter, the 4000 and 7000 series models are under 37mm, while the 5000 series is over 37mm. The former can be thought of as ladies' models, and the latter as men's models, but both are characterized by their small size.
In particular, the Ref. 7200 series has a smaller case diameter of 34.6mm.
Additionally, the letter at the end of the model number indicates the case material: R for rose gold, G for white gold, J for yellow gold, and P for platinum. Incidentally, A stands for stainless steel, which is not found on current Calatravas.
