I have never seen such an extraordinary situation affect not only the watch industry, but the entire world. For those of us in the watch industry, all major international watch fairs have been canceled except for the one in Dubai in January, leaving us without a venue to see many new products and exchange information. We asked leading journalists in the watch industry to select their top five new products from those announced in the first half of 2020. We also asked them for their views on the large-scale international watch fairs, which are now at a crossroads. This time, we spoke to Gregory Pons, a journalist who runs the independent news site Business Montres & Joaillerie.
*This article has been re-edited and published in issue 89 of Chronos Japan, released on June 3, 2020.
Gregory Pons' Top 5 for the First Half of the Year
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Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Stainless Steel
Automatic (Cal. BVL 138). 36 jewels. 21,600 vph. Approximately 60 hours of power reserve. Stainless steel (diameter 40mm, thickness 6.4mm). 100m water resistant. 1.3 million yen (excluding tax).
With its brushed matte steel, sleek bracelet, and slim fit that sits effortlessly on the wrist, the new Octo Finissimo collection will set a new standard for sport chic in the 2020s, mercifully rendering all the "sporty chic" icons of the late 20th century obsolete.
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De Bethune "DB28XP Tourbillon"
Manual winding (Cal. DB2009V4). 33 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 120 hours. Ti (diameter 43mm, thickness 8.1mm). Water resistant to 3 bar.
More than just a purely mechanical feature, a great watch is also the culmination of watchmaking culture. The new ultra-thin tourbillon DB28XP perfectly achieves this by combining these elements with a stylish finish that evokes its beauty and inspires joy every time you look at it.
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Chanel "Coco Clock"
Manual winding. 17 jewels. Height 153 x width 110 x thickness 61mm.
It's not very common for women's watches to be produced successfully outside of miniaturized men's watches, and it's impossible to make a watch more feminine than this clock, proving that Chanel knows how to reach out to women...
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Breitling Superocean Heritage '57
Automatic (Cal. 10). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 42 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 42mm, thickness 9.99mm). Water resistant to 100m. Limited production. Price: 495,000 yen (excluding tax).
We appreciate vintage codes when they stay true to the spirit of a golden age, but also speak to the sensibilities of today. The Breitling Superocean Heritage '57, with its strong identity and assertive style, is the must-have dive watch for the first half of 2020.
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Ikepod "Megapod Automatic"
Automatic (Cal. MIYOTA9039). 24 jewels. 28,800 vph. Stainless steel (diameter 46mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. Price: 145,000 yen (excluding tax).
This is unmistakably a UFO on the wrist. With its large size (46mm diameter), minimalist dial with Arabic numerals "engulfed" in the outer fringe, and the absence of lugs, the rounded, satin-finished case is easy to wear. For a watch with such a strong impact, its modest price of just under 10 yen is nothing short of boon.
