Sumiya Ryokan is a long-established Kyoto inn that has stood at its gate in Fuyacho Sanjo since it was founded in the early Taisho period. Though it is located in the heart of the city, once you step inside you are enveloped in a space enveloped in silence, like a mountain retreat. The authentic sukiya-style building is equipped with five tea rooms, and guests have been welcomed with the spirit of the tea ceremony since ancient times. It is difficult to choose between the different expressions of the four seasons, but this time we visited Sumiya Ryokan, where the rooms are decorated for summer.
SONO (bean): Photographs by sono (bean)
[First published in the November 2020 issue of Kronos Japan]
A long-established inn in the ancient capital with a tea-themed atmosphere, where hospitality is at its heart
Even if you're not aspiring to the tea ceremony, you'll long to visit Sumiya Ryokan someday. If you delve into its history, you'll find that the original occupation was swordsmithing, which is where the name Sumiya comes from. The inn was founded in the early Taisho period when the owner, who had many hobbies, would invite friends he met through tea, pottery, and Noh music to hold tea ceremonies and also host faraway friends. The guest rooms, built in the sukiya style, are fitted with hearths and are designed to be used as tea rooms at any time. So it's only natural to lay out a futon in the tea room at night to sleep.
"The view of the garden from Zangetsu never gets old. It shows completely different faces depending on the season, weather and time of day," says the innkeeper, Hiroko Horibe. Zangetsu, one of the oldest guest rooms, is a replica of the Omotesenke Zangetsu-tei. The equally historic Sengetsu is a replica of the Sengetsu-tei in the Togudo Hall of Ginkakuji Temple, and the design from the alcove drop-off to the floor frame represents the moon rising from the water. It is used as a dining hall and waiting room for tea ceremonies.
There are also guest rooms named after Noh plays such as "Izutsu" and "Matsukaze," as well as a new wing that was added the year the last Tokyo Olympics were held, for a total of 20 rooms. There are five tea rooms, and on the evenings of the 7th and 17th of each month, which are the death anniversaries of the previous and previous previous heads of the inn, guests are invited to the tea rooms after dinner for a special reception.
One of the charms of Sumiya Ryokan is the changing of the rooms throughout the seasons. In summer, the sliding doors are replaced with reed doors and reed mats are hung from the eaves, allowing a refreshing breeze to blow through. Ajiro mats are also laid on top of the tatami mats on sunny days during the rainy season, which is very pleasant.
For dinner, you'll be served a variety of elegant dishes in your room, based on the tea ceremony kaiseki style, signaling the arrival of the season. Soaking in the Koyasuki bathtub will help you fall into a deep sleep. Even though you're in the heart of Kyoto, you can spend an extremely quiet time here. The next morning, you'll have breakfast of boiled tofu from Hirano Tofu, located near the inn, and then have a relaxing break before departing. Even though it's only a one-night stay, you'll feel a sense of calmness within you.
The proprietress shared an anecdote that can only come from a traditional inn with such a long history: "One guest who visited as an adult reminisced about being brought here as a child and said, 'I didn't understand it then, but I think my parents wanted to show me the real thing. I only realized it when I was an adult.'"
It's not just a place to stay, but a place where you can experience traditional Japanese culture firsthand.
Charm House
Kyoto City, Kyoto Prefecture, Nakagyo Ward, Fuyacho Sanjo Shitaru
Tel.075-221-2188
Check-in 15:00 / Check-out 10:30
All 20 rooms
Dinner and breakfast included for one person per room
Price: 40,000 to 65,000 yen (excluding tax, including service charge)
