There was no watch fair, but there were still masterpieces: A summary of new watches from Omega, Grand Seiko, Patek Philippe, Rolex, and more in 2020

Watch Journalist Yasuhito Shibuya's Useful Watch Industry Chat

On September 1, 2020, Rolex finally announced its new models online. Leading up to that, several companies, including Bulgari, Breitling, Girard-Perregaux, Ulysse Nardin, and H. Moser & Cie., held the Geneva Watch Days in Geneva, Switzerland, starting on August 26. Including the virtual Watches & Wonders Geneva 2020 event held on April 25 and the various companies' online announcements, this means that most of the major brands' new models for 2020 have now been released. Here, we'd like to summarize this year's new watch trends and noteworthy models.

Rolex

On September 1, 2020, the top page of the official Rolex website finally unveiled the long-awaited new model.
Text & Photographs by Yasuhito Shibuya
Article published on June 2020, 9


A series of "New Classic" watches that everyone will agree on

 After taking a look at new releases from various brands this year, I believe the biggest trend in new watches for 2020 is the "New Classic."

 So what exactly is a "New Classic" watch?

 These watches inherit the traditional style of the brand while incorporating modern, refined designs and the latest movements. This allows you to purchase with confidence, with little chance of regret, and you can use them for a long time without getting bored. Furthermore, thanks to the efforts of each brand, more attractive and reasonable prices than ever before have been realized, which is another major trend in this year's new releases.

 This is good news for consumers who are considering purchasing a watch. It is also a great blessing in the midst of this crisis for watch stores, which have been in a difficult situation due to the delay in new releases due to the cancellation of watch fairs and the self-restraint of business this spring, as they now have a selection of new products that are both "sellable" and "easy to sell."

Rolex

 And the new models that best symbolize this trend are Rolex's Submariner, Oyster Perpetual 41, and Oyster Perpetual 36, which were announced online on September 1st to worldwide attention. All of these models are equipped with the newly developed new movement, Caliber 3230. As a result, the power reserve (running time), which was the only dissatisfaction with the specifications, has been improved from approximately 48 hours to approximately 70 hours. Furthermore, details such as the case size and shape have also been refined.

 One model that deserves particular attention is the Oyster Perpetual 41, which features a first-of-its-kind 41mm case size, a sunray-finished silver dial, and yellow gold indexes, hour and minute hands, and a yellow gold second hand with luminous paint. It's a truly "new classic" watch, with the reassurance of a classic model and just the right amount of freshness.

Oyster Perpetual 41

The new Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 features an attractive silver and gold color scheme. While retaining the traditional style of a Rolex classic, the case size has been increased to 41mm in diameter, giving it a more modern refinement. It is equipped with the latest caliber 3230.

Cartier

 Further symbolizing this trend are Cartier's new Pasha de Cartier and Santos-Dumont XL watches, which were unveiled about four months earlier at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2020, the world's first online watch fair. Many people were captivated at first sight by these watches, especially the stainless steel model, which retails for 60 yen (excluding tax).

パシャ ドゥ カルティエ

© Cartier
The 41mm stainless steel model of the Pasha de Cartier and the Santos-Dumont XL Watch were created with the latest technology and are reasonably priced.

omega

 In addition, Omega's series of new products, including the Constellation Master Chronometer, whose fifth generation model was announced in February of this year and to which a 41mm case diameter model was added in July, all have the same appeal.

Constellation Master Chronometer

This 41mm model of Omega's Constellation Master Chronometer features a polished ceramic bezel with Roman numerals in Ceragold, as well as a 41mm case. The design is fresh, combining a calm yet sporty feel.

Tag Heuer

 The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02 Sport Chronograph, equipped with the latest in-house chronograph movement, the Calibre Heuer 02, is undoubtedly a "New Classic" model. Many people have been surprised by its timeless design and attractive price, which exudes elegance that sets it apart from previous models equipped with this movement.

TAG Heuer Carrera

The long-awaited TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02 Sport Chronograph is the first standard model to feature a new movement made entirely in-house.

Audemars Piguet

 In the same chronograph genre, many other fascinating new models have appeared that embody the "New Classic" concept. These include the 40mm Audemars Piguet Remaster 01 Audemars Piguet Chronograph, which boasts a fascinating craftsmanship that surpasses that of a reissue; the Breitling Chronomat B01 42, which inherits the original Rouleaux bracelet but has evolved significantly; and the new Longines Master Collection and Montblanc's Montblanc 1858 and Heritage models.

Remaster 01 Audemars Piguet

Clockwise from the top left: Audemars Piguet's 40mm "Remaster 01 Audemars Piguet Chronograph," Breitling's "Chronomat B01 42," Montblanc's "Heritage Monopusher Chronograph," and Longines' "Master Collection Chronograph." While each watch is significantly different in status, they all boast their own in-house movements beneath their "classic" appearance.