The new Pasha de Cartier, always captivating the times

The Pasha de Cartier has been an icon of Cartier since its release in 1985. Its design, which reflects the company's rich history and the times, is certainly worthy of its status as an icon. In 2020, Cartier completely revamped this model while maintaining its original concept. While retaining its bold design, the interior and exterior have been significantly refined.

Boldness meets sophistication

　The Pasha de Cartier was redesigned in 2020. The design returns to the original 1985 model, while the specifications have been upgraded to the highest level, including high magnetic resistance and high winding efficiency, allowing for easy winding even during desk work. The Pasha de Cartier has returned to Cartier's original intention of being a "watch suitable for any situation."

　Since the 1970s, the Swiss watch industry has found a new way forward in design, focusing on thin watches and, even more so, sporty watches. Cartier was no exception, releasing the new "Santos de Cartier" in 78 and the "Panthère de Cartier" in 82. Both were collections with sleek cases that took advantage of the benefits of thin quartz movements.

　In addition, Cartier added the "Pasha de Cartier" in 85. This was an extremely sporty watch with a crown cover and Arabic numeral indices, but its design details were modeled after classics. For example, it featured a concave bezel with a large hollow on the inside, a design element favored by luxury watches of the past. Also, despite being a watch water resistant to 100 meters, the tip of the crown cover was adorned with a cabochon-cut precious stone.

　Naturally, this sporty yet luxurious design caught people's attention. Cartier collector and historian George Kramer writes, "From 1985 to 87, the Pasha quickly rose to prominence and became a favorite among trendsetters and opinion leaders." There's a reason he says this: the original Pasha was only available in an extremely expensive 18K gold model.

　However, Cartier found it difficult to resist the demand for the Pasha. In 90, Cartier added a stainless steel model, and in 95, the 35mm diameter "Pasha C." With its expanded range of variations, the Pasha quickly became a new icon of Cartier. "At first, the majority of people wearing the Pasha were men. But later, women wearing the men's Pasha began to be seen on the streets of Milan" (George Kramer).

　As mentioned at the beginning, the new 2020 Pasha de Cartier incorporates the design of the 1985 model, but is a significantly improved model. However, the details have been further refined, with the top of the bezel tapered and the plate supporting the crown cover now housed within the case. The bezel has been changed to a fixed design, and the magnifying lens for the date display, a feature of the early models, has also been removed.

　Kurono Peace, a collector who can be said to be from the original Pasha generation, commented on the new Pasha as follows: "While it retains the original design, the movement has changed and its performance has improved. The way the bezel is displayed has also changed, which is new. You can tell the generation of the watch by the width of the bezel." Indeed, Cartier has skillfully updated the Pasha. The same goes for the movement; the Caliber 1847 MC that the new Pasha is equipped with has high magnetic resistance (theoretical maximum is 1500 gauss) despite its transparent case back.

　Meanwhile, how does the new Pasha look to the new generation? "The modest 35mm case diameter seems to be comfortable to wear. Also, being able to see the movement is a big plus for me," says young watch enthusiast DOI. The focus on comfort is clearly a new generation's perspective.

　Despite its three-dimensional appearance, the new Pasha is actually a thin watch. The 35mm size is 9.37mm thick, and the 41mm size is 9.55mm thick, more than 2mm thinner than the previous Seatimer. The reason it is able to achieve 100m water resistance and a thinness that could be mistaken for a dress watch is because Cartier now manufactures the exterior in-house. The high-precision processing, which means a thin and airtight case, has resulted in a significant improvement in the Pasha's usability. Incidentally, when the new Pasha was announced, Cartier selected five creators as ambassadors. It's no wonder, all of them are people who don't seem like the type to wear heavy watches.

　In addition, Cartier has given the Pasha a more rigid bracelet, improving the weight balance with the head. It feels like a different era when you think of the old Pasha C. The new bracelet, which is neither too heavy nor too light, has been enhanced with a "Smart Link" function that allows the links to be easily disassembled, and the case now features a "Quick Switch" that allows the bracelet and strap to be easily interchanged. The fact that it is suitable for any situation and gender could also be seen as a return to the Pasha's roots.

　The Pasha once captivated many people with its bold design. The new model has desirable elements for a practical watch, such as thinness, anti-magnetic properties, and a long power reserve. The new Pasha, which has undergone a major transformation with the same concept, is sure to captivate even more people.