The Oyster Perpetual was initially positioned as a cheaper version of the Datejust, but it also helped lay the foundation for Rolex. We will introduce the appeal of the Oyster Perpetual, its history from its birth to the present, and the current model.
What is the Oyster Perpetual?
Rolex is known for its contributions to improving the practicality of wristwatches through three major inventions that have left their mark in the history of watches: the Oyster case, the Perpetual, and the Datejust.
The model we will introduce this time, the Oyster Perpetual, incorporates two of these inventions.
One of Rolex's three greatest inventions
The "Oyster Case," named after the hard shells of oysters, was invented in 1926 and is a sturdy case with excellent waterproof and dustproof properties. It was used in a crossing of the English Channel the following year, proving its excellent performance.
In 31, he invented the "Perpetual" mechanism, which featured a rotor that rotated in both directions and automatically wound the mainspring, reducing the time and effort required for winding a manual watch and the risk of the watch's interior becoming dirty.
The Datejust, released in 1945, featured a mechanism that placed the date display at the 3 o'clock position on the dial. It was highly praised for its excellent functionality, such as the small window being placed in an easily visible position and the date instantly changing at midnight.
Oyster Case and Perpetual Movement
The Oyster Perpetual is a model that features two of Rolex's three greatest inventions: the Oyster case and the Perpetual.
This model was introduced in 1931, the same year the Perpetual was patented, and was developed in conjunction with the already invented Oyster case.
As its name suggests, it is an automatic watch with a case that is highly waterproof and dustproof. Based on this model, Rolex later developed professional models such as the Submariner, Milgauss, and Explorer.
The History of the Oyster Perpetual
Let's take a look at the history of the Oyster Perpetual, which carries the origins of Rolex to the present day. Since its introduction, it has been repeatedly improved and is now a high-performance model that incorporates all three of Rolex's great inventions.
The birth of the so-called Bubble Back
The early Oyster Perpetual is also known as the Bubble Back because the thickness of the case back makes it look like a bubble.
The early models released from its birth in 1931 to around 50 included Ref. 2940, 3131, and 5015. The movements used included Cal. 520 (AR) and 630NA.
The case diameter is 31mm, slightly smaller than the "Semi-Bubble" model introduced next. It was produced for about 20 years, including the Semi-Bubble model, and is still popular among collectors today due to the wide variety of dials and hands available.
Semi-bubble also available
From around 1950, models with case diameters of 33 to 34 mm began to appear. These were called semi-bubble models because the case was slightly larger and the bulge of the back cover was reduced.
Semi-bubble models such as Ref. 6084, 6103, and 6107 were only produced for a few years until 55. All of them were equipped with the Cal. 645 movement.
Alongside the Bubble Back and Semi-Bubble, the Oyster Perpetual was also produced for the American market in the 50s and 60s.
Its distinctive feature is the simple dial with a crossed cross pattern, without any decorative indices or other markings. This dial was called the "Zephyr Dial," and so the model itself is commonly known as the "Zephyr."
High specs with all three major inventions
In 1945, the Oyster Perpetual Datejust was introduced, equipped with a calendar function. This made it a high-spec model incorporating all three of these inventions, and it has been produced to this day.
As for the non-date Oyster Perpetual, after several decades of non-production, the Ref. 116000, with a larger case diameter of 36mm, was released in 2008.
In 14, production of the so-called "Air-King," which had been in production since 07, effectively came to an end, but production continues as a 34mm Oyster Perpetual with the same model number and specifications but without the Air-King logo on the dial.
