What should you look for when buying bracelet watches, which are all the rage these days?

2025.08.29

Q: What should you look for in bracelet watches, which are all the rage these days?

Over the past decade, the number of Swiss-made watches with bracelets has increased. While they existed in the past, with a few exceptions such as IWC and Rolex, they were not considered to be of high quality. However, bracelets in recent years have become extremely refined.

So what factors should you look for when choosing a bracelet?


Masayuki Hirota

Article published on June 2020, 10
2025/8/26 update
Photograph by Takeshi Hoshi (estrellas)


A: There are four things to look at, including the balance with the head and the play of the top.

Rolex Bracelets

Watches over 50 yen have links adjusted with screws

Since pins that are removed for adjustment are prone to damage, screw fastening is preferable for models that advertise themselves as "luxury watches." However, titanium bracelets are soft, so screw fastening can strip the threads. However, this does not apply to bracelets that are paired with thin, lightweight watches, such as the Patek Philippe Nautilus.

The weight of the watch is appropriate

A while back, it was common to see a heavy watch with a light bracelet. In most cases, this was paired with a generic bracelet. This was cheaper, but the watch itself would wobble, making it uncomfortable to wear. It's best to avoid pairing a heavy or thick watch with an extremely thin bracelet.

The play of the top is appropriate.

Hold the bracelet and twist it gently from side to side. If it bends a lot or doesn't bend at all, it may break over time. The latter is likely to make the bracelet uncomfortable to wear.

If you use it for desk work, choose a thin buckle, if you use it outside, choose a thick buckle

One thing that is surprisingly often overlooked is the thickness of the buckle. Thin buckles are less likely to get in the way of desk work, but on the other hand, they may break if subjected to stress. Conversely, thick buckles are sturdy but not suitable for desk work. When choosing a bracelet, consider the circumstances in which you will be using the watch.


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