This time, I'll be reviewing the Sky Chief Chronograph from Favre-Leuba. The company resumed sales in Japan in 2016 and has emphasized active use through tie-ups with action hero TV shows, athletes, and various other parties. In this context, I'd like to share my impressions of this dressy watch, which is unusual for the brand, and share the appeal of the watch.
Favre-Leuba "Sky Chief Chronograph"
Text by Tsubasa Nojima
Founded in 1737, the company is one of the oldest brands still in existence. Its strength lies in its vast technical and design assets. Many of its current collections are modern interpretations and updated versions of past archive pieces. The Sky Chief collection is no exception, and its origins date back to the Sea Chief, which was released in 1956.
The Sky Chief collection maintains the Sea Chief philosophy of combining formal design with practicality, and is known for its dressiness and toughness. The Sky Chief Chronograph, the subject of this review, is a model equipped with a chronograph.
A "jack-in-the-box" that amplifies the excitement of obtaining something
The excitement of purchasing a watch and holding it in your hands for the first time is unmatched. However, after purchasing a watch, the first thing you see is the box. Usually, watch boxes are cubic and open like a clamshell, but the one that comes with this model is cylindrical. There are no visible seams.
After admiring it for a while, I notice a protrusion on the side and press it. The Sky Chief Chronograph slowly rises with a "click..." sound. I can't help but gasp at this unexpected gimmick. When you buy a watch in a store, you may be asked whether you want to wear it immediately or leave it in the box, but with this model, we recommend that you take it home in its box. This will surely make your first encounter even more moving. The box may be just that, but it has a meaning beyond just being used for protection and storage.
Original and practical design
Let's take a look at the exterior. The 43mm diameter, 16.1mm thick case is very impressive. When I actually held the Sky Chief Chronograph in the palm of my hand, it was larger and thicker than any other watch I had owned. I usually prefer smaller watches, and my wrist circumference is 16.5cm, so I wonder if I can properly evaluate this model. I suddenly began to feel uneasy.
The thickness is likely due in large part to the movement. It is based on the ETA7753, but omits the 12-hour counter. While there are pros and cons to using a general-purpose movement, this choice is likely due to the company's emphasis on practicality.
The reliability that many brands have proven over the years and the ease of maintenance that allows repairs to be carried out in any general workshop are essential for a watch as an instrument.
This model has a so-called retro-futuristic design. Its iconic square indexes and 14-sided bezel are also features that can be seen in the "Sea Sky" released by the company in the 1970s. When I first saw the images, I thought it was just unique, but the moment I saw the actual watch for the first time, that impression was shattered.
Not only is it a well-designed, symmetrical piece, but it also faithfully embodies the philosophy of its ancestor, the Sea Chief, which is to combine formal design with practicality. Just because it's a retro-future design doesn't mean it should be lumped in with revivals or homages. This shows that the company's design was established in the 70s. In fact, common characteristics can be seen in the company's other collections.
The dial is semi-gloss black. Usually, black dials are glossy to emphasize formality, or matte like pilot watches to emphasize practicality. The black used on this model is somewhere in between, and can be said to have taken the best of both worlds. It reflects the surrounding scenery like a mirror, but does not reflect light brightly. This is another example of the Sea Chief philosophy.
The slate gray subdial adds a touch of elegance to the dial. A 30-minute counter is located at the 3 o'clock position, and a small seconds hand is located at the 9 o'clock position. Both have a sunray finish, but the hands are painted white for easy visibility. A silver chapter ring surrounds the outer periphery of the dial, giving the large dial a more refined look.
There is a date window at the 6 o'clock position. The more common watch with a window at 3 o'clock has the advantage that the date can be seen through the cuff, even when wearing long sleeves. But what about this model? It would be quite difficult to fit a 16.1mm thick case under a cuff. Since the advantage of the 3 o'clock position is lost, I feel that placing the window at the 6 o'clock position, which creates a symmetrical design, was the best choice.
The distinctive square indexes are coated with Super-LumiNova on the top surface, ensuring practicality in dark places. In addition, the convex shape allows the corners to reflect light brilliantly, providing excellent visibility even during the day.
The case has a unique shape, with arched lugs on top of a cylindrical shape. This is not just unique. The case sides have a double layer of polished and hairline finishes, which makes it feel less thick than the numerical value would suggest.
When viewed from above, the wide lugs with a hairline finish gently extend from the case, making the case appear smaller. The lugs, which combine strength and elegance, are also in line with the philosophy that has continued since the Sea Chief.
The case back is a solid back, with practicality in mind. The brand logo engraved in the center is screwed in, but is aligned straight against the case. This is not just because it is a test unit.
It's a small detail, but it feels better than facing in the wrong direction. Of course, there are probably some people who don't mind. But it's the attitude of "they've paid attention to even these little details" that makes it appealing. God is in the details.
The strap is just as thick as the case. It is made of finely grained black calf leather with light brown stitching that gives it a tough impression. It is equipped with a large pin buckle. The pin is flat, so be careful when replacing the strap with one made by another company.
The attachment point (lug holes) to the case is closer to the base of the lugs, rather than at the tip of the lugs, which reduces the gap between the case and the strap, creating a sense of unity.
