Rolex continues to evolve its collection without changing its basic concept. The new Submariner, announced in September 2020, is a unique example of this. What attracted attention was the 1mm larger size. However, it also features subtle improvements.
Ref. 126610LN. The long-awaited Submariner Date with the 32 series movement. Its diameter is 1mm larger, but its appearance remains virtually unchanged. Automatic (Cal. 3235). 31 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel (41mm diameter). Water resistant to 300m. Price: ¥878,000.
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
The same perfection even when the size is increased
The caliber 13235 (hereafter referred to as the 32 series), released in 2015, was based on the existing 31 series but was a movement with significantly improved performance. As many enthusiasts expected, the new Submariner unveiled in September 2020 will be equipped with the 32 series. The power reserve has been extended to approximately 70 hours, and the Parachrom hairspring has significantly improved shock resistance and magnetic resistance. The diameter has also been increased to 41 mm.
Ref. 126610LV with a green Cerachrom bezel. With a monoblock Oyster case, size equals weight. However, despite the increased size, the bracelet feels comfortable to wear. The specifications are the same as the above model. Price: 918,000 yen.
Since 2000, Rolex has made significant improvements to the case and bracelet design. The heads have become heavier, and the bracelets have become correspondingly heavier. The clasp now features a micro-adjustment function for improved comfort. While Rolex has managed to improve the exterior feel without compromising the packaging, the latest models are, to put it mildly, too large and heavy.
It's unclear whether this was intentional, but the new Submariner has slimmer lugs and the bracelet seems slightly thinner. It's a small, but significant, change that doesn't just add, but finally subtracts what needs to be subtracted. As always, the watch's finish is impeccable.
The Ref. 124060 is equipped with the Cal. 3230 without a date display. Personally, I find this the most desirable model, including the price. Aside from the date display, there's no difference between it and the date-equipped model. 31 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel (41mm diameter). Water resistant to 300m. 777,000 yen.
Personally, I'd like to draw your attention to the new Oyster Perpetual. This model without a date display has all the basic features of a Rolex, so you can enjoy its basic appeal in a straightforward way. For 20, the 39mm and 26mm sizes have been discontinued, and larger sizes of 41mm and 28mm have been added. The balance between the head and bracelet remains excellent for all models, and they are not heavy, making them suitable for everyday wear.
The 41mm Ref. 124300 replaces the existing 39mm model. There are seven dial colors to choose from. The bright blue color is stunning. The price is also extremely strategic. Caliber 3230. 31 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel (41mm diameter). Water resistant to 100m. 565,000 yen.
However, as is typical of Rolex, it seems that new models remain difficult to obtain. Given that it is such an excellent watch, it would be great if it were a little easier to obtain.
Contact info: Rolex Japan Tel. 03-3216-5671
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