Bvlgari "Finissimo" ultra-thin tourbillon chronograph breaks the world's thinnest record

FEATURES Magazine article

2020.10.26

Bvlgari

Every year, Bvlgari's Finissimo collection breaks the world record for the thinnest mechanical watch. Rather than simply making the watch thin, the brand's skill in combining excellent wearability and practicality has become more and more impressive. The new tourbillon chronograph goes a step further, attempting to combine this with aesthetic appeal.

Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic
This model achieves the sixth world thinnest record. The movement is captivating, achieving a high level of aesthetics and mechanism. The excellent wearing comfort common to Finissimo watches remains unchanged in this model. The philosophy is not simply to make the watch thin, but to create something that can withstand everyday use. Automatic winding (Cal. BVL 388, movement thickness 3.50mm). 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 52 hours. Ti (diameter 42mm, thickness 7.40mm). Water resistant to 30m. Limited to 50 pieces worldwide. Estimated price 1584 million yen.

Photographs by Eiichi Okuyama
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)

A model that is not only ultra-thin but also practical

　Bvlgari unveiled new products at this year's Geneva Watch Days. The centerpiece was the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic, the world's thinnest automatic tourbillon chronograph. To emphasize its slimness, the chronograph clutch uses a compact swing pinion. The pinion engages with the outer periphery of the tourbillon carriage, driving the chronograph wheel.

Cal. BVL 388 has 388 parts. There is plenty of space for the tourbillon gear train, with the barrel at 12 o'clock, the second wheel in the center, and the carriage at 6 o'clock. Taking advantage of this, the chronograph draws its power directly from the carriage at 6 o'clock. It uses a horizontal clutch with a swing pinion, but the reset hammer is a modern, single piece. You can see that it is firmly fixed in place.

　In recent years, Bvlgari has been further promoting the fusion of design and engineering. What stands out in this piece is the attention to detail. The lever supporting the swing pinion is rounded and fitted onto the bridge supporting the carriage. In addition, the reset hammer, which is made from a single piece of wood in the style of Frederic Piguet, is hollowed out and held in a similarly skeletonized bridge for enhanced aesthetic effect.

Bvlgari Aluminium Chronograph / Bvlgari Aluminium

Bvlgari Aluminium Chronograph / Bvlgari Aluminium
Three models were released in 2020: two three-hand models and one chronograph model. The use of titanium for the case back improves corrosion resistance. On the left is the chronograph. Automatic (Cal. B130). 37 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 42 hours. Aluminum and rubber (40mm diameter). Water resistant to 100m. 455,000 yen. On the right is the three-hand model. Automatic (Cal. B77). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 42 hours. Aluminum and rubber (40mm diameter). Water resistant to 100m. 315,000 yen.

　Designer Fabrizio Bonamassa Stigliani said, "When designing the chronograph, I wanted to make the design symmetrical and the chronograph counters as large as possible. I also wanted to show off the mechanism of the movement." As a result, this thin movement is an excellent example of how a chronograph works. I never imagined that Bulgari would create such a movement. As is typical of Bulgari, the pushers have a slightly stiff feel. The practical touch is also typical of Bulgari today.

The new Bvlgari Aluminium is Bvlgari's entry-level model. To reduce costs, the movement uses the Caliber B77, based on Sellita. According to designer Fabrizio Bonamassa Stigliani, the design and finish have remained unchanged since the original 1998 model, but the details, such as the raised lettering and the carefully colored hour and minute hands on the sides, are excellent.

　What surprised me was the high quality feel of the new Bvlgari Aluminum. Bonamassa explained that the design has remained largely unchanged, but the material and finish have improved, making it look noticeably better. Hopefully, the corrosion resistance issue has also been addressed.

Contact info: Bvlgari Japan Tel. 03-6362-0100

Introducing Bvlgari's new products for 2020, including the "Bvlgari Aluminum" and "Octo Finissimo"