The new Chronomat B01 42 inherits the design of the first Chronomat model released in 1984. However, while it features details reminiscent of the classic model and revives the Rouleaux bracelet, it touts itself as an "all-purpose watch" that can be worn anywhere, rather than a pilot's watch. In this article, we will delve into the exterior of the Japan-exclusive Chronomat B01 42 Japan Edition and explore why the new Chronomat is an all-purpose watch.
Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Japan Edition
Photographs by Masanori Yoshie
Text by Yuto Hosoda (Chronos Japan Edition)
Text by Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan)
From "Pilot's Watch" to "All-Purpose Watch"
The new Chronomat, the "Chronomat B01 42," underwent a model change in 2020. Its distinctive features include the revival of the Rouleaux bracelet and the adoption of short, straight lugs to reduce the overall length of the head, incorporating many design elements reminiscent of the 1984 model.
However, the Chronomat B01 42 is by no means a return to its roots. The 84 Chronomat gained popularity due to its stylish design, which led to it being worn by pilots in their off-time as well, but it was originally a pilot's watch based on the Frecce Tricolori, which was developed for the Italian Air Force. In contrast, the new Chronomat, while retaining the look of a sports watch, was defined as a versatile watch with the flexibility to be worn in any situation.
How did they manage to create a watch that can be worn by any user, regardless of the occasion, while still retaining the design of a "professional instrument" that is targeted at a limited number of situations? Let's uncover the secret behind this by looking at the exterior of the Japan-only model.
This is the traditional Japan-only model. The color of the chronograph second hand on the "reverse panda" model has been changed from red to silver, the same as the hour and minute hands. The high-contrast dial boasts excellent visibility. Automatic (Cal. 01). 47 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 42.00 mm, thickness 15.10 mm). Water resistant to 200 m. Price: 890,000 yen (excluding tax).
The evolution of the Rouleaux bracelet
The first thing that catches your eye when you pick up the Chronomat B01 42 is the bracelet. The Rouleaux bracelet, which was also used on the "first model," is now standard on all models except for the 18K Gold case.
This Rouleaux bracelet is so well made that it cannot be compared to the original. First of all, it feels great to wear. Some of the links are so wide that they are wider than the lugs, so they can firmly support the heavy-looking head. There is little play on the left and right sides of the bracelet, so it fits well on the wrist considering the size of the watch.
Compared to the old Rouleaux bracelet, the feel has also been improved. The reason for this is clear when you look at the photo of the back. The links are well-marked even on the back, and above all, the joints between each link have been hollowed out to reduce the area that touches the skin.
Another notable feature is that all the links can be disassembled, allowing for an elaborate finish. Each link, which has a satin finish, is chamfered, and polished links are incorporated into each link in two places, every other link. The polished finish, which shines brightly against the shallow satin finish, creates a sense of luxury that goes beyond that of a professional instrument.
Furthermore, durability has improved compared to the first model. The old Rouleaux bracelet was made by welding a part for passing a pin to the rolled steel links, but this welding sometimes came off during use. Each link moves flexibly, fitting to the wrist and providing an excellent wearing comfort, but this may be one of the reasons why the old Rouleaux bracelet disappeared from the market.
In contrast, the Chronomat B01 42 has been crafted by individually milling each link, resulting in a level of durability that is incomparable to the first model. Furthermore, because all links can be disassembled, the play between each link is uniform, further improving the fit.
The simple way each piece is connected also contributes to its high reliability. The image below shows how this is done.
At first glance, the bracelet appears to be made up of two polished links and one that is only satin-finished, but in fact the polished links are connected with pins, and the connecting links are covered with satin-finished covers and secured with longer pins.
This method is unlikely to break easily and also reduces the overall weight of the bracelet.
