The brand's craftsmanship shines through! A ladies' watch with an art and gold bracelet

2020.11.28

Many watch brands once again released artistically designed ladies' watches in 2020. In addition to timepieces using traditional craft techniques such as enamel and engraving, there were also models created in collaboration with artists and high jewelry pieces with stunning gem settings. The lineup was rich in variety. Also showing signs of a revival in recent years are watches with gold bracelets. Bracelet models that can be worn like jewelry are attracting the attention of women.

Text by Aki Nogami
[Article published in Chronos Fam issue 51]

A watch journalist talks about artistic ladies' watches

 "Métiers d'Art" is a French term meaning "artistic handiwork," and has become a popular term in the watch industry over the past decade. Many long-established watch brands have their own Métiers d'Art ateliers, producing highly artistic timepieces. What do Masamasa Hirota, editor-in-chief of Chronos Japan, and Aki Nogami, a watch and jewelry journalist, think of these artistically designed ladies' watches?

Hirota: In the field of art watches, first of all, enamel technology has become extremely advanced. As seen in Cartier's "Ronde Louis Cartier Panthère Filigrand Demaille" and Jaquet Droz's "Petite Heure Minute Paillon Fleur de Vie." Not only are the colors vibrant, but different enamel techniques are used to achieve artistic expression. What can also be said here is that each manufacturer is generally particular about the "attention to detail in the dial." Especially in women's watches, unprecedented designs are becoming more prominent.

Nogami: The term "Métiers d'Art" has become firmly established. Every year, Cartier shows us truly interesting expressions using enamel and marquetry. Meanwhile, Harry Winston's "HW Premiere Majestic Art Deco Automatic 36mm" is a model worthy of being called "art painted with gems." The use of the limited space of the dial is superb, and the polishing of the parts is also excellent. You can see the skill of a high jeweler.


Artistic beauty marks the passage of time

The collection features painting-like designs created through skillful craftsmanship and gem setting, as well as a collection of masterpieces that could be called wearable "art," including some that are part of innovative collaborations with artists.

Cartier
Art dials that further develop traditional techniques

Laziz Hamani ©️ Cartier
(left)Cartier "Ronde Louis Cartier Panthère Filigran Demaille"
Manual winding. WG x D + alligator strap. 36mm diameter. 1164 million yen (excluding tax). Limited to 30 pieces worldwide.
(right)Cartier "Ronde Louis Cartier Marquetry de Paille et D'or"
Manual winding. WG + alligator strap. Diameter 42mm. 762 million yen (excluding tax). Limited to 30 pieces worldwide. Inquiries: Cartier Customer Service Center Tel. 0120-301-757

 The world of Métiers d'Art is created in an atelier in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. This year, a dial was created that applied the gold wirework technique of "filigree" to enamel techniques. The bamboo surrounding the panthère is made from elongated strips of enamel. The bamboo nodes are decorated with gold thread, creating a sense of depth. Another piece is themed around "marquetry," an inlay technique. The panthère is expressed in three dimensions using gold and a material called "paille," which is made from colored actual straw. It takes approximately 97 hours to create a dial. This artistic design is born from extremely meticulous work.

This marquetry piece combines colored straws with white and yellow gold accents. The 75 straws are colored in 12 colors. The panther's spots and eyes are enameled.

Jaquet Droz
Advanced techniques for creating golden ratio patterns

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Paillon Fleur de Vie
Automatic movement. RG×D + alligator strap. 35mm diameter. 486 yen (excluding tax). Limited to 8 pieces worldwide. For inquiries, please contact Jaquet Droz Boutique Ginza at 03-6254-7288.

 "Fleur de Vie" means "flower of life." The geometric shape of six overlapping petals is artistically expressed in paillonné enamel. Previously outsourced to Swiss enamel artisan Anita Porcher, the work is now produced in-house. This watch embodies Jaquet Droz's craftsmanship.

The production process of paillonné enamel, which consists of two layers of enamel. A dial engraved with a guilloched pattern is first enameled, and then a thin layer of gold leaf, called a paillonné, is set into it. A second layer of enamel is then applied on top of that.

Chanel
An elegant cuff watch born from the aesthetics of dress

 A new secret watch has been released from the jewelry watch collection "Mademoiselle Privé." The theme is the "button," an iconic element that adorns Chanel jackets. The button (watch cover) is decorated with a double gold border and features motifs beloved by Mademoiselle Chanel, such as engraving and cameos. The photo shows a piece with a "pearl" and "camellia" design. There is also a tweed cuff type in black and gold, which evokes the beautiful world that Mademoiselle loved.

(left)Chanel "Mademoiselle Privée Bouton"
Quartz movement. Yellow Gold, White Gold, and D + Tweed and Calfskin. Diameter 25mm, cuff width 35mm. Price: 775 million yen (excluding tax). Limited to 55 pieces worldwide.
(right)Chanel "Mademoiselle Privée Bouton"
Quartz movement. Yellow Gold x White Gold (black PVD DLC processing) x Diamond x Pearl. Diameter 25mm, cuff width 35mm. Price: 3870 million yen (excluding tax). Limited to 5 pieces worldwide. For inquiries, please contact Chanel (Customer Care) at 0120-525-519.

Harry Winston
The beauty of Art Deco expressed through exquisite craftsmanship

 This high-jewelry watch pays homage to its birthplace, New York. Its diamonds, emerald-cut black jade, cabochon-cut mother-of-pearl settings, and marquetry create a world of black and white. This high-end piece captivates with its delicate finish.

Harry Winston "HW Premiere Majestic Art Deco Automatic 36mm"
Automatic movement. WG x D x black jade + alligator strap. Diameter 36mm. 1160 million yen (excluding tax). For inquiries, please contact Harry Winston Client Information at 0120-346-376.

Dior
The gold dress shines like a ball night

 Dior is one of the brands that has created artistic dials. The world of "couture," an important theme of the Maison, is completed with delicate goldwork. The mirror finish and beautiful openwork are layered multiple times, creating a look that resembles fluttering pleats and lace.

Dior "Dior Grand Soir Plisse Precie"
Automatic movement. PG x WG x D + satin strap. Diameter 36mm. 7,147,000 yen (excluding tax). Limited to 88 pieces worldwide. For inquiries, please contact Christian Dior at 0120-02-1947.

Hublot
The second collaboration with modern art is in monotone colors!

 This is a collaboration model with contemporary painter Marc Ferrero. Last year, the world of his masterpiece "Lipstick" was recreated in a colorful lacquer finish of red and turquoise, but this year it is in the artist's beloved white and black, making the red of the lipstick stand out even more.

Hublot Big Bang One Click Marc Ferrero Ceramic Black & White
Automatic movement. Black ceramic with D + calf leather and rubber strap. Comes with an interchangeable alligator and rubber strap. Diameter 39mm. 205 yen (excluding tax). Limited to 100 pieces worldwide. For inquiries: LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan Hublot Tel. 03-5635-7055