Why did luxury sports watches take center stage in the 2010s?

Luxury sports watches replaced the "big, thick" watches and took the lead in the sports watch market in the 2010s. In a decade that was said to lack a specific theme, the "luxury sports" style was practically the only trend of the time. How did it achieve its current status?

The transition from "big, thick" watches to thin sports watches

　The 2010s have been described as a "decade without a theme" in the watch industry, with a wide variety of watch genres emerging only to disappear without ever taking root. However, at least in the area of ​​sports watches, one major trend can be seen: the end of the "big, thick" trend and the accompanying resurgence of luxury sports watches.

　Once touted as a major trend in sports watches, large, thick watches were a boon for manufacturers. This was because they made it easy to fit the ETA 7750, with a diameter of 30mm and a thickness of 7.9mm. However, as manufacturers began developing their own in-house movements in anticipation of the ETA 2010 problem, they also began to use their core in-house calibers in sports watches. It's worth noting that these movements were given added value, such as thinness and free-sprung movement, to differentiate them from ébauche movements. Furthermore, a thin, shock-resistant case was required to showcase the superiority of the movement. By adding a high-quality finish to this case, a thin, luxury sports watch with an in-house movement could be made to have a more prestigious feel than a basic watch with the same movement. Thus, the luxury sports genre became even more desirable for manufacturers than the large, thick watch.

　Of course, luxury sports watches simply being convenient for watch makers would not have become a major trend that dominated the past decade. The times were also on luxury sports watches' side. One example is the global decline in the use of suits as work attire. For executives and managers who no longer need to wear suits due to the influence of cool biz and the no-tie movement, the most user-friendly watch is a luxury sports watch that combines a certain degree of durability and luxury with a watch that does not get caught on the sleeves of a jacket or shirt.

The rise of the Asian market fuels the luxury sports boom

　Another factor that spurred the luxury sports boom was the maturation of the Asian market, particularly China, in the 10s. Sports watches were originally merely tools used by professionals, and they did not pose any asset value in themselves. Therefore, a market for sports watches could only be established if the enthusiasts who support that market began to consider factors other than price when choosing a watch. Jean-Claude Biver once said:

"The Chinese don't like sports watches like Tag Heuer or Hublot at all because they think they don't convey prestige. But that will change." Just as Biver had envisioned, in the Asian watch market, especially in China and Hong Kong, watch collecting by enthusiasts has come full circle, and gradually sports watches themselves are beginning to sell. If sports watches become a collectible item in the hot and humid Asian region, then when choosing a prestige watch, the wealthy in particular will naturally seek out luxury sports watches that are well suited to the climate.

　With global warming, the idea that luxury watches that can withstand high temperatures and humidity are needed is likely to spread around the world in the future, and luxury sports watches will no doubt continue to dominate the market.

Released in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was the pioneer of luxury sports watches. By meticulously finishing stainless steel, which had not previously been used in luxury watches, the brand created a sporty yet luxurious watch. The photo shows the Royal Oak Automatic, which is equipped with an automatic movement developed in-house.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus was released in 1976. It was one of the first luxury sports watches, released following the Royal Oak. Like the Royal Oak, the design was created by Gérald Genta and features a case shape reminiscent of a porthole. The photo shows the Nautilus 5726/1A, which features an annual calendar and moon phase.