The top 5 new watches of 2020 selected by world-renowned watch journalist SJX

Sjx

Su Jiaxiang, aka SJX, is the founder of watchesbysjx.com. Born in 1985, he became interested in watches at the age of 12 and has been contributing to websites and other publications ever since. He is currently one of the most influential watch journalists.

The best watch of 2020 is Ferdinand Berthoud
　Here are five watches that I thought were great in 2020. First up is the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud's Chronometer FB 2RE. This is arguably the best watch of 2020, combining technical excellence (a complex movement and sophisticated design) with the exceptional finish of an independent watchmaker. The FB 2RE is clearly the product of a project driven by passion, not profit. Second is the Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie 6301P. While it uses a simplified version of the Grandmaster Chime movement, it boasts clever design features like deadbeat seconds and a three-gong carillon. It also features cutting-edge technology like a silicon balance spring.

　Bernard Lederer's Central Impulse Chronometer features a twin natural escapement, designed based on ideas from Breguet, Daniels, and Derek Pratt. While the dial design is a bit less impressive, it's a truly impressive achievement. Peterman Beda's 1967 Deadbeat Seconds is the first work by two very young watchmakers. This masterfully executed piece is heavily influenced by mid-20th-century watchmaking. And finally, there's SUF Helsinki's Sarpaneva x Moomin. It's an attractive, affordable watch, but the case is excellent, and the hand-finished dial makes it a "métiers d'art" watch suitable for an entry-level budget. While I'm not personally interested in the Moomin theme, the motif is appealing.

SJX's Top 5 New Watches for 2020

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometer FB 2RE

While the case is thick, the movement features a truly impressive remontoir d'égalité and an architectural layout with many elegant details. This is a model that combines low production volume with high quality.

SUF Helsinki Sarpaneva x Moomin "Blue Hands"

SUF Helsinki is the second line of Helsinki-born independent watchmaker Stefan Sarpaneva. "Attractive, striking and affordable watches, the Moomin Edition offers excellent value for money."

Peterman Beda 1967 Deadbeat Second

The movement that powers the Central Impulse Chronometer is a truly impressive technical achievement, combining a complex yet traditional idea that already existed: the twin natural escapement.

Bernard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer

What's impressive is how Tudor subtly refines the details of their watches each year, and this model uses a vintage cord to create the ideal modern watch. The bracelet is also one of the best.

Patek Philippe Grand Sonnerie 6301P

Though it's a modern watch with a silicon balance spring and jumping seconds, Patek Philippe has given the movement a slightly more traditional aesthetic, with elegant bridges featuring more elaborate beveling.