Laurent Picciotto, founder of the watch boutique Chronopassion, picks the top 5 new watches of 2020

2020.12.10
Published in the January issue released in December 2020

Laurent Picciotto

Laurent Picciotto

He is the founder of Chronopassion, known as one of the world's leading watch boutiques. He was a close friend of Gérald Genta and helped found Richard Mille, making him one of the most discerning watch connoisseurs in the industry. He has appeared in our magazine many times.

The only trend of 2020 is the integrated bracelet
 I don't think there were any truly profound trends in 2020, because watch production and trade shows were delayed due to the COVID-5 pandemic. The only trend was that many brands created metal bracelets integrated into the case, following the designs of Gérald Genta. However, few brands managed to create anything good. There is no example of someone being able to create something good by improvising. To pick five watches from 2020, I would start with Bulgari's stainless steel Octo Finissimo Automatic. I never expected Bulgari, a company known for its women's watches, to create an iconic men's watch. Its ultra-thin movement and lightweight bracelet brought a new feeling to the wrist.

 Our second pick is the collaboration between H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F. This is a new interpretation of watchmaking, and two fascinating brands combine beauty and technology. I really like H. Moser's approach of not showing their logo. Urwerk's UR-111C TT uses two colors to create a beautiful contrast. I also like the time display mechanism, which is reminiscent of a driver's watch. The funky blue of H. Moser's Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic has a clear and easy-to-read design. Its non-traditional case and exquisite bracelet make it an unparalleled and attractive watch. Finally, we have MB&F's Legacy Machine Thunderdome. This watch with a three-axis escapement is a complication with an exceptional design.

THE RAKE founder Wei Ko picks the top 5 new watches of 2020
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Laurent Picciotto's Top 5 New Watches for 2020

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Satin Polish

"I never imagined that Bulgari would quickly create an iconic men's watch and a complicated watch with so many world records." The stainless steel version, which joined the blockbuster, is different in character from the Ti model.
The case is also different and is water resistant to 100m.

Octo Finissimo Automatic Satin Polish

Automatic. Stainless steel. 130 million yen. (Inquiries) Bvlgari Japan ☎03-6362-0100

MB&F Legacy Machine Thunderdome

This model features a three-axis tourbillon, developed by Eric Coudray and Kari Voutilainen. The inner cage rotates once every 8 seconds, the middle cage rotates once every 12 seconds, and the outermost cage rotates once every 20 seconds. It was announced in December 2019.

Legacy Machines Thunderdome

Manual winding. Pt. 27 Swiss francs. (Inquiries) https://www.mbandf.com

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic

This coaxial flyback chronograph features Agenor's Agengraph movement. It features a uniquely shaped case and a bracelet that is extremely comfortable to wear. The 2020 model features a funky blue fumé dial.

Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic

Automatic. Stainless steel. 480 million yen. (Inquiries) Exes ☎03-6274-6120

Urwerk UR-111C TT

This is a different specification added to the UR-111C with a linear display. Three horizontally arranged displays show the hours (jumping hour), minutes (linear display), and minutes (rotating display). The 2020 limited edition has a two-tone case.

UR-111C TT

Automatic winding. Stainless steel and PVD. 135,000 Swiss francs. (Inquiries) https://www.urwerk.com

MB&F x H. Moser Legacy Machine 101 MB&F x H. Moser

"There's nothing to indicate the brand, no logo, but it's beautiful and the mechanism is sufficient. It's a watch that only the owner will understand, and I like it that way." This is a "Moser-ized" model of MB&F's LM101. There are four dial colors available.

Legacy Machine 101 MB&F x H. Moser

Manual winding. Stainless steel. CHF 53,000. (Inquiries) www.mbandf.com


The Omega "321 Moonwatch" has finally arrived. Enjoy its overwhelming operational feel.

http://www.webchronos.net/features/54901/
THE RAKE founder Wei Ko picks the top 5 new watches of 2020

http://www.webchronos.net/features/56802
World-renowned watch journalist Gisbert L. Brunner's top 5 new watches of 2020

http://www.webchronos.net/features/56706/