Uncovering the origins of the name Cartier Tank

Everything has a name, and each name has a meaning and a reason for being named. So, what is the origin of the name of that famous watch? In this column, we will explore the secrets behind the names of watches and introduce them along with their anecdotes.
This time, we will explore the origin of the name "Tank," one of Cartier's long-selling collections, which was launched in 1917.

Cartier Tank

　The Cartier Tank was born in 1919. According to official sources, the prototype was created in 1917. Louis Cartier was said to have been inspired by the blueprints of a Renault tank.

　This "chariot plan" story is well-known and can be found in many magazines, books, and other publications, as well as in Cartier documents. I myself have written about it many times in my younger days.

　So, it goes without saying that the name "tank" comes from "tank" = "tank."

　Now, let me tell you a personal story. At one point, I had serious doubts about this episode.

　The tank was developed by Britain during World War I. The first tank, the Mark I, was used in combat for the first time on September 15, 1916, during the Battle of the Somme.

　From then on, news of the tank's exploits spread daily to the people of Europe. However, because it was a top-secret, cutting-edge weapon, its detailed appearance was never shown in photographs or even illustrations. And it's unlikely that Louis Cartier, a civilian, would have ever seen a plan view of it. Furthermore, the first Renault tank, the FT-17, was deployed in combat on May 31, 1918, at the Battle of Letz Forest.

　This makes it impossible that Louis Cartier was inspired by the plans of a Renault tank and that a prototype was built in 1917.

　So what is the truth?

　"THE CARTIER TANK WATCH" by Franco Cologni is a must-read for any watch enthusiast. It has been published three times, with each edition undergoing significant rewrites, which is particularly fascinating. According to the preface to the third edition, "the first edition was a systematic catalog," the second edition was "compiled as a spectacle enriched with iconography," and the third edition is "an ode, through story and visuals, to a watch that has stood the test of time with boundless creativity and unchanging essence." If you haven't read it yet, I recommend collecting all three volumes and comparing them.

　The first edition of "Cartier: The Legendary Tank Watch" published in 1997 states:

"According to Cartier legend...the shape of this prototype case, designed by Louis Cartier in 1917 during the war, was inspired by the blueprints of a Renault tank."

　This description is a major reason why I took the "Tank Plan" at face value, as it was written by none other than Coloni.

　However, Coloni probably realized something at some point. In the second edition of "Cartier The Tank Watch Timeless Style" published in 2012, he details how the British Mark I tank was first deployed in combat at the Battle of the Somme on September 15, 1916. The news was reported by Le Figaro and other media outlets the following day, the 16th. He then goes on to detail how the tank was finally introduced for the first time in an illustration and two photographs two weeks after the end of the battle.

"It is reasonable to assume that the design was inspired by a special feature on frontline troops in the Saturday, December 2nd issue of L'Illustration. Ironically, the inspiration came from the war photographs published in this famous illustrated weekly newspaper, founded in 1843."

　Furthermore, the third edition in 2017 also states:

"It was in December, after the German army had been defeated, that people, filled with uncontrollable curiosity, first saw illustrations of tanks. This British-made tracked armored vehicle, named the 'Tank,' gave people the strong impression that it was absolutely invincible. Louis Cartier then drew a sketch for a watch inspired by the powerful lines of the tracks. This shape was the first design of the Tank watch of the same name, which would go on to transcend generations."

　So the Tank was designed by Louis Cartier, inspired by illustrations and photographs of British tanks. That's probably the official view today.

　However, in fact, I also think this way.

Was "Tank" really inspired by a tank?

The Tank's greatest feature is the simple design of its case. The left and right sides of the square case are extended vertically and horizontally, and the strap is attached to these. This means that it fulfills the functions of a wristwatch without even needing lugs. The Tank's simple structure is the perfect "shape of a wristwatch."

　The method of sublimating such functionality into design is reminiscent of the German art movement "Bauhaus." Furthermore, its mechanical forms are reminiscent of Italian "Futurism." Its clear, geometrical forms share a common thread with "De Stijl," a movement founded by Dutch architects and painters. Furthermore, the Tank's emphasis on linearity and contrast between black and white could be said to have anticipated the "Art Deco" movement that would soon take the world by storm.

　In other words, the Tank is a masterpiece of watch design that embodies the various artistic styles of its time, and more importantly, a masterpiece in the history of design.

　So perhaps the tank anecdote was something they came up with later. The design they came up with happened to resemble a tank, so they named it "Tank" and added the tank story. That's what I think.

　Whatever the truth, there is no doubt that the Tank is a masterpiece that will go down in history. And the fact that the Tank is still being produced almost exactly as it was back then is a wonderful reality for us watch enthusiasts, and we are truly happy about that.

Yutaka Fukuda
Writer and editor. Writes about men's lifestyles in general for publications such as "LEON" and "MADURO." He also writes about watches in a series of articles and appears in many videos for the web magazine "FORZA STYLE."