Oris' signature model in bronze: the Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date.

Following the current trend, Oris's design icon, the Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date, is wrapped in warm bronze not only for the case but also for the bezel, crown, and even the dial. This time, we conducted a wear test with the intention of wearing it in everyday life.

Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date

　Bronze, a metal containing over 60% copper, is known as one of the earliest alloys created and used by humans. Today, it is a popular watch case material, with many brands offering bronze models.

　To appreciate this material, you have to appreciate the way it ages. Bronze tarnishes when exposed to air. This is because the surface oxidizes over time, but its durability and resistance to corrosion remain unchanged. The color change simply reflects the passage of time. Is there any other material that is better able to reflect the passage of time so vividly? Especially when it comes to a watch with a time-honored design like the Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date.

　In 1938, Oris introduced a watch with a large crown that pilots could operate while wearing gloves. The Big Crown Pointer Date featured large Arabic numerals and arrow-shaped markers for improved visibility, as well as a red-tipped arrow-shaped hand for the date. This watch has become a part of Oris' history and has never been discontinued. For over 80 years, it has survived changing times, social upheavals, and many trends that have come and gone, and has become a trademark of the Oris brand. In fact, without this timeless timepiece, Oris may never have achieved its current reputation as a high-quality, independent Swiss watch brand.

Bronze marks Oris's industrial philosophy

　The Big Crown Pointer Date played a key role in Oris's resurgence following the quartz crisis of the late 1980s and its decision to produce only mechanical watches in the future. This striking timepiece has a history and a purpose, and it evokes strong emotions then and now.

　The bronze dial is chemically treated and finished with a clear matte varnish to prevent it from aging like the case. Over several months of wear testing, the case color changed from light gold to dark brown, adding depth to the watch and allowing it to develop a unique patina. While the dial remains unchanged, the finish lends it a unique, one-of-a-kind feel.

Oris is synonymous with the Pointer Date

　This watch features a few small changes compared to the original 1938 model: the arrow-shaped markers have been replaced with an hour track with Arabic numerals, and the minute track has a vintage look, something not found on earlier Big Crown Pointer Date models.

　The small seconds at 6 o'clock is a descendant of the historic 1938 "Pointer" caliber 373, but this has been replaced by a central sweep second in the Sellita SW200-1-based caliber 754. The distinctive Pointer Date hand retains the original Oris design from 1938. Its triangular tip with an inward curve nicely frames the slightly smaller date numerals around the edge of the dial.

　The vintage cathedral-style hour and minute hands are generously coated with luminous paint. In the dark, the hour and minute hands, along with the hour markers in the minute track, glow bright green. The other numerals glow a little less brightly. The hour markers are easy to read in any situation thanks to the luminous treatment and authentic vintage design.

　The case's domed crystal and coin-edge bezel emphasize the watch's historical elements, lending this iconic timepiece a compelling sense of authenticity. The downward-sloping lugs and supple leather strap make it extremely comfortable to wear. Like the bronze case, the strap will show signs of wear over time, but this is undoubtedly a deliberate design element. Oris has incorporated levers into the lugs to make it easy to remove and replace the strap. The simple yet sturdy bronze pin buckle matches the overall style of the watch.

　Originally designed with pilots in mind, the "Big Crown" crown is easy to operate. Its generous size and deep grooves make it easy to grip. The date display gradually changes from 30 minutes before midnight until it switches to the correct time exactly at midnight. The proportions of the hands are also perfect.

　The results of the accuracy stability test showed that the daily rate of change was within an acceptable range. The automatic movement, which can be viewed through the transparent case back, features an eye-catching red rotor. The price of 22 yen (excluding tax) is very reasonable.

Accuracy stability test

*This article is a translation of the German version of Kronos.

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