As I wrote in issue 92 of Chronos Japan (please buy it if you haven't read it yet!), 2020 was a bumper year for basic watches. While companies refrained from announcing new products this year, they likely decided that the so-called classic basic models would sell reliably. As a result, 2020 was a banner year for basic watches. While each model is worthy of attention, this time we will compare three watches that our editorial team wants to focus on and that we think readers will be most interested in.
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
(Posted on May 2020, 12)
These models are the IWC Portugieser Automatic 40, the definitive edition of which has finally been released, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date, which has regained its former glory, and the truly amazing Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Limited Edition Model SLGH003. Incidentally, as a Giese enthusiast, I chose the Portugieser as my Chronos pick for the best watch of 2020.
Three bottles with exquisite packaging
To put it simply, it's hard to choose between the IWC Portugieser Automatic 40, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date, and the Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Limited Edition SLGH003. The new Gieser can be said to be the definitive automatic, and LeCoultre's Master Control is so well-made that it makes you wonder what all the confusion was about in the 2010s. And if you can get your hands on a Grand Seiko with the Caliber 9SA5, it seems like a good buy based on its internals alone. Let's take a closer look at the three models below.
The three basic watches released in 2020 excel in the most important aspect of a classic watch: packaging. The basic specifications of the three models are as follows:
IWC Portugieser Automatic 40
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date
Grand Seiko "Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Limited Edition Model SLGH003"
What's noteworthy is the size of the three models. All are in the 40mm range in diameter, and IWC and GS have finally managed to keep the thickness of their cases down. Both companies place importance on the durability of their watches, and while they weren't completely indifferent to case thickness, their cases were by no means thin. However, the new models from IWC and Grand Seiko are under 13mm thick, meaning they won't get caught on your shirt cuffs. In my opinion, a basic watch should be 15mm thick, and ideally under 13mm.
At just under 10mm thick, the Master Control Date still feels as light and comfortable as a dress watch. It used to be said that thin watches under 10mm were not suitable for everyday use, but Jaeger-LeCoultre has now succeeded in incorporating a robustness worthy of a "new classic." The reason for this will be explained later.
Incidentally, the watch with the highest water resistance is Grand Seiko, which uses a screw-down crown. It's also water resistant to 10 bar, so there's no need to remove the watch when washing your hands. However, IWC and Jaeger-LeCoultre also have higher water resistance than stated. You'll need to remove your watch when washing your hands (watches with a water resistance of less than 10 bar should always be removed), but there's no need to worry too much.
Also, as these are classic watches made by a long-established company, it's only natural that none of the models have any issues with the case edges being too sharp and rubbing against the skin.
