Comparing Three Notable Basic Watches from 2020: Portugieser vs. Master Control vs. 60th Anniversary GS Vol.3

As I wrote in issue 92 of Chronos Japan (please buy it if you haven't read it yet!), 2020 was a bumper year for basic watches. While companies refrained from announcing new products this year, they likely decided that the so-called classic basic models would sell reliably. As a result, 2020 was a banner year for basic watches. While each model is worthy of attention, this time we will compare three watches that our editorial team wants to focus on and that we think readers will be most interested in.

　These models are the IWC Portugieser Automatic 40, the definitive edition of which has finally been released, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date, which has regained its former glory, and the truly amazing Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Limited Edition Model SLGH003. Incidentally, as a Giese enthusiast, I chose the Portugieser as my Chronos pick for the best watch of 2020.

Automatic movements with clear differences between manufacturers

The IWC Portugieser Automatic 40, Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date, and Grand Seiko's Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Limited Edition SLGH003 are equipped with in-house movements worthy of today's standard models. Here are their basic specifications again:

　The three basic watches released in 2020 excel in the most important aspect of a classic watch: packaging. The basic specifications of the three models are as follows:

IWC Portugieser Automatic 40

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date

Grand Seiko "Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Limited Edition Model SLGH003"

Comparing Three Brands' Approaches to Automatic Movements

　The first thing to look at is the automatic winding mechanism. Many of the in-house automatic watches released in the 2000s were essentially just replacements for ETA and Jaeger-LeCoultre. Naturally, their designs were similar to those of ETA and Jaeger-LeCoultre, and with the rise of desk workers today, they had trouble winding. In contrast, the new generation of automatic watches from 2010 onwards has clearly improved winding efficiency. The automatic winding mechanisms used in the three models reflect the individuality of each manufacturer while taking into account what is currently required of automatic watches.

IWC Pellaton Automatic Movement Now Even Stronger

　IWC adopted the classic Pellaton automatic winding system, which is wound by pawls. This automatic winding system, which was completed in 1950, is large and takes up a lot of space, but it winds well even when used at a desk and is extremely durable. For this reason, IWC continues to use the Pellaton automatic winding system to this day, with almost no changes to its basic design. The automatic winding mechanisms of the Portugieser 2000, released in 2000, and its successor, the Portugieser Automatic (equipped with the Caliber 50000 and 51000 series), are actually an exact re-use of the Caliber 8541 automatic winding mechanism designed in the mid-1960s.

　The Cal. 52010 used in the current Portugieser Automatic replaces some of the materials in the automatic winding mechanism with harder ceramic. The basic design of the automatic winding mechanism is roughly the same, but the gears and pawls used for winding have been changed to ceramic, further improving durability. According to IWC's designers, "the automatic winding mechanism is virtually wear-free." This means there is no need to worry about the winding efficiency decreasing over the long term.

　The automatic winding mechanism of the Caliber 52010 is repurposed into the Caliber 82000 series used in the Portugieser Automatic 40. In addition, by making the winding wheel hollow, the inertia of the automatic winding mechanism has been further reduced. Although IWC has not announced it, the efficiency of the automatic winding itself is likely to be superior to that of the 52000 series, as the automatic winding mechanism is now lighter.

Jaeger-LeCoultre's "unidirectional winding" improves efficiency during desk work

　Jaeger-LeCoultre's 899 series watches are designed for high winding efficiency during desk work. For a long time, the company used a bidirectional automatic winding mechanism with a switching rocker, where a small gear oscillates. This mechanism is compact and wear-resistant, but winding efficiency was low. As a result, switching rocker automatic winding was only available to a select few high-end manufacturers who could use heavy materials like gold or platinum for the rotor. However, it was not possible to guarantee good winding during desk work, and if the automatic winding mechanism ran out of oil, it would quickly stop winding.

　Jaeger-LeCoultre has worked hard to improve its switching rocker, but since 04 has made a complete turnaround and adopted a simple unidirectional winding automatic. While this system causes a greater shock when winding, it has the advantage of being extremely easy to wind even when working at a desk. While many manufacturers now use unidirectional winding automatics, the long-established Le Sentier company discovered its benefits 15 years ago.

　However, the reason Jaeger-LeCoultre was able to widely adopt unidirectional winding was probably because of the thinness of its movements. If unidirectional winding were used in a thick movement, the rotor would be heavy and the shock during winding would be greater. The ETA7750 automatic chronograph is a good example.

　In contrast, Jaeger-LeCoultre, with its thin movement, can reduce the shock during winding even when switched to unidirectional winding. It's only natural that Jaeger-LeCoultre has managed to incorporate unidirectional winding without compromising its luxury image. While I haven't used the latest 899, I have used the first model, which was changed to unidirectional winding. Speaking from that experience, I believe the new 899 also has high winding efficiency.

Polishing the Grand Seiko "Reverser"

　Seiko's 9SA5 is the ultimate example of a refined reverser for mass-produced watches. Reversers, which are essentially made up of gears, are extremely productive, and if well designed, can easily wind even during desk work. This is why not only ETA but also Rolex has adopted reversers. However, reversers have weaknesses: they are prone to wear and are difficult to wind if the automatic winding mechanism is heavy. Making them lighter improves winding efficiency, but reduces durability. Rolex, on the other hand, has achieved both durability and high winding efficiency by using lightweight, hardened aluminum for the reverser.

　The 9S55 for Grand Seiko, released in 1998, used a ratchet-type Magic Lever automatic winding mechanism developed by Suwa Seikosha (now Seiko Epson). However, to achieve even greater winding efficiency, the 9S65 series (and its derivatives) was changed to a standard reverser. Normally, changing from a ratchet to a reverser is considered a "deterioration." However, Seiko meticulously worked on the system, carefully eliminating the reverser's weaknesses. The beauty of Seiko automatic watches, including Grand Seiko, is their high winding efficiency, but I never imagined that a reverser would further improve winding efficiency.

　Seiko's approach with the 9S65 is similar to that of Rolex. Reducing the inertia of the automatic winding mechanism increases winding efficiency, and special treatment of the components increases the durability of the reverser. Seiko must have been so confident in this approach that they adopted a similarly compact reverser for the 9SA5. While I haven't tested the 9SA5, my experience with the 9S65 suggests that the automatic winding mechanism should be excellent. It also likely won't need replacing during maintenance, unlike reversers on other brands.