[Interview] Roger Dubuis Product Strategy Director Gregory Bourtin

Since becoming part of the Richemont Group, Roger Dubuis has dramatically changed its public image. However, its attitude towards movements remains as honest as ever. Even designer Gregory Bretin, who is now a spokesperson for the brand, suddenly leans forward and speaks when the topic turns to movements.

Long-lasting durability is key for Roger Dubuis

Gregory Bultan
Born in Switzerland in 1977, he studied watchmaking theory at the Engineering School in Neuchâtel before joining Roger Dubuis in 2002. After being involved in the development of automatic movements, minute repeaters, and skeleton movements, he served as head of the movement development department before becoming Product Strategy Director. He is highly regarded for his skill in skillfully layering functional parts to create skeletonized designs.

　Bretin unveiled the new Excalibur Superbia, a masterpiece that took approximately 900 hours to set a total of 600 precious stones, but what really stood out was the "completely improved movement."

　The only visual difference is that the star has been aligned with the tourbillon. However, Bretin says that the power reserve has been extended to approximately 72 hours, and shock resistance and reliability have also been improved. The biggest difference is the barrel. Looking at the old and new drawings, we can see that the barrel arbor and walls have also been made thinner. As a result, a longer mainspring can be housed. In theory, a longer mainspring will extend the power reserve. Roger Dubuis has followed the method adopted by many manufacturers. The barrel has also been changed from one supported by a bridge to a suspended barrel, supported only by the base plate. The reason for this is to improve the appearance.

"But that's not all," explains Bourtin. The design of the differential gear connecting the two tourbillons has been simplified, resulting in less torque loss. Comparing the drawings, we can see that some of the differential gears, which were offset from the center, have now been aligned to the center, eliminating the unnecessary intermediate gear. The movement also has 17 fewer jewels than the previous model.

　The material of the carriage has also been changed from steel to titanium. "The weight has been reduced from 0.65g to 0.46g. By reducing the weight of the carriage, torque loss has been improved by several percent, and impact resistance has also been improved."

　Since the movement itself was extensively remodeled, did they also make changes to the escapement? "Yes, we did make changes to the escapement. We also revised the lubricant. However, we did not use the LIGA escapement. It can be made lighter, but the existing escapement is more durable."

　The previous double tourbillon was an excellent movement that eliminated all of the weaknesses of the previous model. However, Roger Dubuis has made further refinements. What particularly impressed me was that not only has the mainspring been lengthened, but the thickness of the barrel has also been reduced to reduce torque. Reducing torque will likely further improve durability.

　"What's important to us is that our clients can use it," said Bourtin. "Durability is very important to Roger Dubuis."