An undeniable "normal evolution": Omega's new Speedmaster

Watch Journalist Yasuhito Shibuya's Useful Watch Industry Chat

Although the start of 2021 was predicted as early as October, the COVID-19 outbreak, caused by the clear mismanagement of the Suga Yoshihide administration, which pushed ahead with policies aimed at spreading the virus rather than preventing it, has resulted in a depressing state of emergency being declared, primarily in the Tokyo metropolitan area. The United Kingdom, the fifth-largest Swiss watch-loving country in the world after Japan, the fourth-largest importer of Swiss watches, has also entered its third lockdown. This article focuses on one of the few bright spots for watch enthusiasts: the finally announced new Omega Moonwatch.

I never thought normal evolution could be this perfect!

　Unfortunately, I haven't actually seen the watch yet, but this was my impression when I received the press release about Omega's "Moonwatch," officially named the "Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer," via email on January 6th.

　Omega's Speedmaster has an astonishingly diverse product lineup, from heritage models to digital multi-function models. Among them, the classic "Moonwatch," the hand-wound Speedmaster Professional, is undoubtedly Omega's most iconic product. It was the only watch to pass NASA's rigorous endurance tests and was officially adopted as equipment for American astronauts in 1965. Since Apollo 11's first successful moon landing in 1969, it has established an unshakable reputation as the "Moonwatch." Omega has produced many masterpiece watches, but no model is more well-known than this one. It is truly Omega's most iconic product.

　A vaccine for the new coronavirus has been developed, and vaccinations have begun for the elderly and medical personnel who are at high risk around the world, but 2021, like 2020, is likely to be a year without physical watch fairs.

　Incidentally, Omega has been at the forefront of innovation in mechanical watch technology as a major Swiss brand since 1993, when it purchased the patent for the Co-Axial escapement from the late George Daniels, an independent watchmaker and watch technology researcher. In 1999, the company released its first model equipped with this escapement, which offers far superior accuracy and durability compared to the Swiss lever escapement that had been the standard for mechanical watches for over half a century. Furthermore, in 2013, in addition to this mechanism, the company also developed and released a model equipped with the Master Co-Axial movement, which features ultra-magnetic resistance of 15,000 gauss, by adopting new materials such as Nivagauss, which fundamentally solves the problem of magnetization of components. Furthermore, since 2015, in collaboration with the Swiss government agency METAS (Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology), the company has even established the "Master Chronometer" standard, which officially guarantees this precision, durability, and ultra-magnetic resistance, and as readers of webChronos will be well aware, models that pass this test are released under this name.

　By 2020, Omega had completed the certification of almost all of its mechanical models as Master Chronometers. The only standard model that many people could afford that had not yet been certified as a Master Chronometer was the Moonwatch, the standard model of Omega's most iconic hand-wound Speedmaster Professional. This watch has finally been certified as a Master Chronometer.

The latest and greatest "Moonwatch"

　The Master Chronometer design is the ultimate normal evolution of mechanical watches, something only Omega can achieve. It's useful for everyone, but it's especially ideal for those who aren't watch enthusiasts. That's why I can confidently say that this "new standard model of the Moonwatch" is without a doubt the "latest and best Speedmaster," and I can recommend it to anyone without any hesitation.

　The basic specifications are perfect, but what's even more impressive is the variety of models. The stainless steel model comes in four models: one with a sapphire crystal crystal and sapphire crystal case back, a new bracelet and clasp, and one with a leather strap and a new deployment buckle; another with a Hesalite (acrylic) crystal and solid case back, a new bracelet and clasp, and one with a nylon fabric strap and a new deployment buckle. Omega also offers models in two of its uniquely beautiful and durable gold materials: 18K Sedna gold and 18K Canopus gold (each available with a bracelet and alligator strap in the same material).

　In the world of automobiles, where technological advances are remarkable, the general value is that "the latest model is the best model." However, in the Swiss watch industry, since its revival in the 1980s, the value that "the value lies in the way things have remained the same" was mainstream until the 2000s. This is because Swiss watches had established a timeless design, but at the same time, the advancement of basic technology and the introduction of new materials were extremely slow compared to other industries.

　However, today, a growing number of models are being released that retain the good old designs while using the latest technology to achieve cutting-edge performance. Although the exterior may be classic, just like with cars, the value that "the latest model is the best model" is finally becoming common.

　And the biggest contributor to this shift and revolution in values ​​is none other than Omega. This new "Moonwatch classic" can be said to be the culmination of that. It took Omega nearly a quarter of a century, starting in 1993, to finally accomplish this revolution. While it is the polar opposite of the flashiness of limited edition models, this model is an epoch-making one in that sense as well.

Shibuya Yasuhito/Shibuya Yasuhito

As an editor of a product information magazine, he began covering Geneva and Basel in 1995. As an editor and writer, he has been there 25 times since then. He is currently planning, covering, editing, and writing about not only smartwatches but also all kinds of things and events other than watches.