In December 2020, a restaurant for special occasions, "unis," was born. What is the thought behind the creation of this restaurant by Chef Yakushijin Riku, who has a unique background and is bringing a breath of fresh air to the world of food?
Photographs by Yu Mitamura

A Western-style chawanmushi (savory egg custard) that showcases the charm of rare silver-glazed chestnuts. Utilizing the distinctive skin, you can enjoy the different textures of the puree and espuma. A classic sauce with a modern twist. Opening the lid of the incense burner-inspired dish releases the elegant aroma of black truffles along with the steam. Paired with lukewarm sake, "Iwashimizu" from Igaya Brewery in Nagano Prefecture. The course menu changes every two months.
A memorable meal that fills both hearts
Opening the brass door and passing by the sculptures that hang from the ceiling, which seem to combine dynamism and stillness, you enter a waiting area with subdued lighting. Each space has its own unique scent that excites guests and leads them to an extraordinary experience.
Born in Ehime Prefecture in 1988. After graduating from high school, he went on to Tsuji Culinary Institute, where he worked as a French cuisine instructor for five and a half years. In 2014, he participated in the launch of "SUGALABO" and demonstrated his skills. In December 2020, he opened "unis" and "Social Kitchen Toranomon" in Toranomon.
The dishes, which are served to just eight guests, are centered around the main ingredients, carefully selected by chef Yakushijin Riku from the nearly 700 producers he has visited over the years, to choose the best of the season. "They are not unfamiliar flavors, but ingredients that everyone has tried, but we will treat them to the finest quality." For example, the chestnuts used in the flan are the largest in Japan, silver-starch chestnuts, grown in Nose Town, Osaka Prefecture, said to be the birthplace of Tamba chestnuts. Making the most of their appeal, the dish is presented as a dish that will rewrite the diners' memories of chestnut flavor.
The striking tableware is an original design based on an incense burner made by Hataman Touen, a pottery maker in Imari, Nabeshima. The surface is deliberately matte and plain, with traditional patterns only painted on the underside of the lid. The tableware used at "unis" was created in collaboration with 12 artists, and is almost like a part of the food. The images and music projected on the wall come together to leave a lasting impression on visitors.
The many dishes worthy of the label "for special occasions" remind us of the original purpose of a restaurant: to make a reservation with a special someone and spend a memorable time in your life.
Yakushigami is both a chef and a culinary producer. The word "culinary," which is unfamiliar in Japan, refers to food as a whole overseas and carries the nuance of entertaining. Next door to his restaurant is Social Kitchen Toranomon, a facility where chefs and companies collaborate to develop menus and hold events, which he also manages. This is an attempt to overturn conventional wisdom in the industry. His ability to communicate his ideas and leadership skills no doubt stems from his experience as a lecturer at Tsuji Culinary Institute, but even more than that, it is likely due to the strength of his fundamental beliefs and the personality that endears him to those around him. His words, "If the chef is not happy, he cannot make the customer happy," struck a chord with me.
unis

Toranomon Garden House 1F, 1-23-3 Toranomon, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Closed Sundays, Mondays, and Tuesdays
Wednesday, Thursday and Friday 17:30~, 20:30~, Saturday 12:00~, 18:00~
Course: 28,000 yen, wine pairing: 12,000 yen (excluding consumption tax and 13% service charge)
Reservations required (reservations for the next two months begin on the 1st of each month)
https://unis-anniversary.com/

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