5 Great Perpetual Calendars with Much to Say

As long as the watch continues to run, the perpetual calendar will not require date adjustment until the year 2100. Among the current models equipped with this mechanism, which is the envy of watch enthusiasts, we will introduce five watches that have particularly noteworthy features.

Chopard "LUC Perpetual T"

Chopard's LUC Perpetual T combines two of the most complicated wristwatch mechanisms in a 43mm diameter 18K ethical white gold: a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar. The copper-colored dial is also crafted from solid gold, and its radial, hand-finished guilloched pattern begins at the date display at 12 o'clock rather than the center of the dial. In addition to the large date at 12 o'clock, the calendar displays include a month indicator and leap year at 3 o'clock, and a day of the week indicator at 9 o'clock along with a day/night indicator. The tourbillon operates alongside the second hand at 6 o'clock. The Caliber LUC 02.15-L inside this sophisticated timepiece boasts a long power reserve of approximately 216 hours, thanks to Chopard's patented LUC Quattro technology, which utilizes two stacked double barrels, or four barrels in total. The power reserve indicator is located on the case back, which keeps the dial from looking too crowded.

Patek Philippe "Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5270"

Combining a perpetual calendar with a chronograph is Patek Philippe's specialty, and few other manufacturers have ventured into this field of haute horlogerie. Of particular note is the Ref. 5270, which debuted in a yellow gold case for the first time in 2020. The silvery opaline dial with gold leaf hands displays the day and month in an aperture below 12 o'clock, while the hand-type date and moon phase are displayed on a subdial at 6 o'clock. Other displays include a 30-minute counter and small seconds on subdials at 3 and 9 o'clock, respectively, a leap year numeral at 5 o'clock, and a day/night indicator in a small aperture at 7 o'clock. The Cal. CH 29-535 PS Q movement featured in this timepiece combines a split-seconds movement, considered one of the most complex mechanisms among chronographs, with a perpetual calendar, yet is only 7mm thick.

Frederique Constant "Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture"

Frederique Constant reintroduced the Highlife collection, first introduced in 2000, in 2020. This time, the company housed its in-house perpetual calendar movement, the Caliber FC-775, in a 42mm case for the series' most complicated timepiece. The calendar mechanism of the Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture can be adjusted using the pushers on the side of the case. The pusher at 5 o'clock adjusts the moon phase, while the pusher at 8 o'clock advances the day of the week. There are also three pushers on the side of the case opposite the crown. The pusher at 10 o'clock advances the date and day simultaneously, while the pusher at 11 o'clock advances the month and also allows for the linked leap year movement.

Greubel Forsey "QP Equation"

This new version of Greubel Forsey's "QP Equation" comes in an 18K gold case and a chocolate-colored dial. It's powered by what Greubel Forsey calls a "mechanical computer" movement, which takes inspiration from the systems used in large astronomical clocks from the late 15th century to display the calendar. Specifically, it displays the day of the week, date, month, year, season, and equation of time. All displays are controlled by a selector integrated into the winding crown.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Evo

The MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Evo, the first watch to feature zirconium in watchmaking, is perhaps the toughest and sportiest MB&F timepiece, a collaboration between founder Max Büsser and his watchmaking "friends." Zirconium is a silver-gray metal that is lighter than steel and more durable than titanium, but its high flammability poses significant challenges when machining it. The 44mm case is crafted from this material, prized in biomedical applications for its hypoallergenic and antibacterial properties, and is MB&F's first watch to be water resistant to 80 meters. The "evo" ("evo") evolution from the Legacy Machine Perpetual is the addition of a ring-shaped buffer called a "Flex Ring." This ring is positioned between the case and the movement, helping to absorb vertical and horizontal shocks. The movement was designed and developed by independent Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell, from scratch, without using a base caliber or module. The design is similar, including visually appealing dial elements such as a large suspended balance wheel.