De Bethune "Kind of Blue" / Dictionary of watch names

Everything has a name, and each name has a meaning and a reason for being named. So, what is the origin of the name of that famous watch? In this column, we will explore the secrets behind the names of watches and introduce them along with their anecdotes.
In the 22nd episode, we will explore the origin of the name of De Bethune's "Kind of Blue," a watch that is extremely original in both its design and model name.

de Bethune "Kind of Blue"

　De Bethune has impressed watch connoisseurs with its innovative mechanisms, such as a balance wheel with a titanium arm and a white gold weight, and a moon phase display that shows the waxing and waning of the moon. However, due to the limited number of units produced, its existence is not yet widely known.

　De Bethune was founded in 2002 in the meadows of Roberson in the Jura Mountains of the canton of Vaud, Switzerland, by David Zanetta, a world authority on watches and a consultant to famous collectors, and Denis Flageolet, a watchmaker who had already designed and manufactured over 100 watches at the time.

　If I had to say, everything about De Bethune's style is outstanding. The in-house developed movements with the innovative mechanisms mentioned above are a prime example. Even on the exterior, you can see innovative ideas and mechanisms, such as the movable "floating lugs" supported by springs. The designs of the case, dial, hands, and more are all original. The use of materials is innovative, and the finishing techniques are unique. The blue color of the titanium, in particular, is a strikingly distinctive feature that has become an icon of De Bethune.

　Another thing that stands out about De Bethune is the model names. The basic model names are simple, such as "DB21," "DB25," "DB27," "DB28," and "DB29." However, some of them have names that are recognizable to those in the know, such as "Kind of Blue" and "Steel Wheels," which appeal to enthusiasts.

　However, this naming was not something that started at the beginning. It began around 2016, after Pierre Jacques, who published a watch magazine and organized the GPHG (Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix), took over as CEO in 2011 from David Zanetta. So it seems that it was Pierre Jacques, who became the new key person at De Bethune, who started it.

　I had previously asked Pierre-Jacques about the origins of these model names.

The DB28 Kind of Blue was first released in 2016. It was the first model to use the aforementioned blued titanium case, and its blue color was said to evoke the image of Miles Davis's 1959 classic album, Kind of Blue.

The "DB28 Steel Wheels" was released in 2018. It was named after The Rolling Stones' 1989 album "Steel Wheels." "Steel Wheels" was the album that prompted the Stones to embark on their first world tour in eight years after a long hiatus from live performances. Incidentally, this world tour marked the Stones' first visit to Japan in 1990, making this album a special one for Japanese rock fans. Pierre-Jacques had been taking a break from the spotlight in 2018, and so he named this comeback model after the album that marked the Stones' return to live performances.

　Also, in 2018, a model called the "DB25 Starry Varius" was released. This literally translates to "various stars," and as the name suggests, the Milky Way is depicted on the dial (there is also a model called the "MILKY WAY"). However, it is actually a play on words with "Stradivarius."

　The 2019 DB28GS Grand Bleu is the first diver's model, named after the film The Big Blue, which depicts free-diving divers. The 2019 DB28 Yellow Tones, also named after Yellowstone National Park, features a yellow-burnt titanium case.

　As you can see, De Bethune's model names are full of wit and playfulness. And it seems that all the staff enjoy making these references and wordplay. It really looks like fun, and makes you want to join in.

　So, I can't help but interject, but in 2019 there was a model called "DB28 Kind of Gold," which is probably a play on "Kind of Blue," but I really wish it had been set to Neil Young's classic song, "Heart of Gold." That's what I think as a rock fan, but what do you think?

　The brand name "De Bethune" is said to be derived from the name of Chevalier de Bethune, an 18th-century French watchmaker who was famous for developing escapements. However, a 2008 press release for Japan that I own states that the name "comes from the title of 'Knight of Bethune (DE BETHUNE)' given to the Marquis SULLY, who lived in the village of Bethune in France and was famous for developing escapements."

　So which one is correct? I would like to ask Pierre-Jacques the next time I have a chance to meet him.

Yutaka Fukuda
Writer and editor. Writes about men's lifestyles in general for publications such as "LEON" and "MADURO." He also writes about watches in a series of articles and appears in many videos for the web magazine "FORZA STYLE."