Citizen's Return to Mechanical Watches: Discovering Their True Value

2021.04.02

On March 4, 2021, Citizen announced the release of a new mechanical model in "The Citizen" featuring the long-awaited new mechanical movement, the Caliber 0200. The arrival of a new mechanical movement from The Citizen, which had long used only quartz movements, was already a major news event. However, the existing 90 series has also undergone evolution, with the power reserve of the premium Caliber 0950 extended and it now features in the top-of-the-line models of the revived Series Eight. Furthermore, a mechanical diver's watch has been added to the Citizen Promaster line, making 2021 the "first year of a return to mechanical movements" for Citizen. We put its true merits to the test.

The Citizen Mechanical Model Caliber 0200

The Citizen Mechanical Model Caliber 0200
It is equipped with the Cal. 0200, a new mechanical movement, the first since the Cal. 0910, released in 2010. The case has no lugs and is composed of bold surfaces. The surfaces are given a sharp, three-dimensional effect by applying a strong hairline and polished finish, and light flows with the movement of the hand, giving it a sense of presence. The black dial, produced using electroforming techniques with a sandy pattern, is also tasteful. Automatic winding (Cal. 0200). 26 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 40.0 mm, thickness 10.9 mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. Estimated price: 605,000 yen. Scheduled for release in August 2021.
Photographs by Eiichi Okuyama
Interview and text by Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
Article published in the May 2021 issue of Kronos Japan


Mechanical model equipped with caliber 0200

 This new mechanical movement marks The Citizen's first release since 2010. It was developed in collaboration with La Joux-Perret, a Swiss movement manufacturer under Citizen's umbrella. According to a Citizen development representative, various technical exchanges and collaborative projects with La Joux-Perret began in 2012. In broad terms, this project began when Citizen acquired La Joux-Perret's parent company, Prosser. Citizen's next-generation Caliber 0200 features a free-sprung balance, a familiar feature in high-precision watches. The escapement is manufactured using LIGA techniques for enhanced component precision. The power reserve has also been significantly extended from approximately 42 hours in The Citizen's previous Caliber 0910 to approximately 60 hours. Additionally, the automatic winding mechanism employs a unidirectional winding mechanism, allowing it to pick up even the most inactive desk workers' movements and keep the movement moving. It can be said that automatic winding, which combines a free-sprung balance with unidirectional winding, is now essential for modern people.

Citizen

(Left) Series Eight 870 Mechanical
The revived Series Eight features two mechanical movements: Cal. 0950 and Cal. 9051. This model is equipped with the Cal. 0950, the movement reserved for higher-end models. Cal. 0950 boasts an extended power reserve of approximately 50 hours and meets JIS Class 2 magnetic resistance standards, making it both stylish and highly practical. Automatic (Cal. 0950). 24 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 50 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 40.0 mm, thickness 10.9 mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 220,000 yen. Scheduled for release in August 2021.
(Right) Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m
This diver's watch is equipped with the JIS Class 2 antimagnetic mechanical movement, Cal. 9051. The green dial and strap complement the Duratect gold-treated bezel and DLC-treated black Super Titanium case. Automatic (Cal. 9051). 24 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve: approximately 42 hours. Super Titanium (diameter 46.0 mm, thickness 15.3 mm). 200m diving water resistance. Price: ¥143,000. Scheduled for release in May 2021.

 While aesthetics and high precision were both key priorities in the development of the new movement, the adoption of a free-sprung mechanism was apparently already a consideration. This emphasis on precision is a testament to the confidence Citizen placed in its development. As a result, the movement achieved an average daily rate of -3 to +5 seconds in a 17-day in-house test in six positions and at three temperatures. Not only does this accuracy exceed the Swiss Official Chronometer's standard of -4 to +6 seconds, the latter test was conducted on the movement alone in five positions over a 15-day period, demonstrating that Citizen's in-house testing surpasses Swiss chronometer standards.

Free-sprung balance

A close-up of the free-sprung balance, which does away with the regulator pin. The weight for adjusting the rate can be seen on the arm of the balance wheel. A new type of "run block" is used for the shock-resistant device. Also note the slot on the balance cock cap screw, visible above the balance cock, and the chamfered outer periphery of the screw head.

The case back is made of sapphire crystal, allowing a glimpse of the much-hyped in-house developed caliber 0200. The main plate of the movement, with its impressive 29.1mm diameter, is fully perlage-grained, and the top surface of the bridge is hairline-finished.

 In cooperation with La Joux-Perret, the company manufactures the base plate, bridges, rotor, etc., while Citizen manufactures the micro-parts that make up the heart of the movement, such as the balance wheel and gears. Since the design itself is also by Citizen, it can be said that this is an unmistakably in-house developed movement.

 This isn't the only topic surrounding Citizen's mechanical movements. The revived Series Eight also announced new models equipped with the calibers 0950 and 9051, which have enhanced magnetic resistance (class 2 antimagnetic). The Series Eight, with its simple yet elaborate exterior based on the theme of "the aesthetics of minimalism," is equipped with a mechanical movement with enhanced magnetic resistance, a requirement of modern society where we live surrounded by magnetic fields, resulting in a further evolution not only in design but also in practicality.

脱進機

This escapement is made up of an escape wheel and pallet fork formed using the LIGA manufacturing method. LIGA allows for precision machining, which increases the machining accuracy of the parts, allowing for more precise control of the meshing of the escape wheel teeth and pallet stones. The reduction in torque loss due to reduced friction is thought to also contribute to higher precision.

 Citizen continues to develop new mechanical models. The professional-grade Citizen Promaster now includes a mechanical diver's watch equipped with the aforementioned anti-magnetic caliber 9051. Specifically, this model can maintain its performance even when exposed to a magnetic field of 16,000 A/m up to 1 cm away. Combined with the 200m water resistance that is the true strength of a diver's watch, this undoubtedly significantly expands the scope of its applications.

 After remaining silent since 2012, 2021 saw the sudden blossoming of the new movement, making it a fitting start for Citizen to call it the "first year of a return to mechanical watches." In future issues, we will continue to report on this new mechanical movement and its details through in-depth coverage.

Cal. 0950

The Series Eight 870 Mechanical is equipped with the Cal. 0950 automatic movement. The Cal. 0950, found in higher-end models, is characterized by a fine-adjustment index on the balance wheel. The enhanced anti-magnetic performance of 16,000 A/m is achieved by replacing the material of the balance spring and its surroundings without the need for an anti-magnetic plate, allowing for compatibility with a thin case. The average daily rate is -5 to +10 seconds.



Contact info: Citizen Customer Watch Consultation Center Tel. 0120-78-4807


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