In 2020, IWC added several new models to the Portugieser family, including the collection's iconic chronograph. This long-standing friend is a noteworthy addition, featuring the currently trendy green dial and in-house movement. With the 2021 model set to be released, let's take a look back at the 20 model.
Text by Martina Richter
Edited by Yuzo Takeishi
Article published on December 6, 2021
The elegant dial of the Portugieser, which has remained virtually untouched until now
The impressive results dispelled all doubts. The attractive look of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph is instantly recognizable as an old acquaintance, even though the test watch's dial is a trendy green, changing nuances depending on the light. Other models in the lineup include a burgundy dial and a boutique-exclusive model with a blue dial and rose gold case.
The extremely clear, distinctive, and functional dial is 38mm in diameter. It features slightly recessed subdials at 6 and 12 o'clock, slim leaf hands, and Arabic numerals. Because these elements are such a distinctive feature of the Portugieser Chronograph, even when creating the new version, the designers didn't express any desire to replace the partially cut-off indices at 6 and 12 o'clock with "simpler" indices.
Comparing the latest model with the update from 10 years ago, we can see that the numerals and their typefaces, which are laid out squarely toward the center of the dial, as well as the fine quarter-second scale, remain unchanged. The latest model of this truly timeless watch is unique, yet remains true to its origins as a timekeeping instrument, as evidenced by the finely marked seconds counter scale on the outer periphery of the dial. The three notches between the seconds scale are timed to match the frequency of the updated version of IWC's 69000-series caliber, which operates at 28,800 vph.
Finally equipped with an in-house manufactured movement
The inclusion of the caliber 69355 is the most distinctive feature of the latest Portugieser Chronograph. One of IWC's most popular collections is finally equipped with an in-house movement. When the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph debuted 10 years ago, it was powered by the 89000 series caliber, introduced in 2007. The 69000 series caliber was born 10 years later, and after four years of development, it was first used in the Ingenieur Chronograph in 2017.
With the arrival of the newly designed 69000-series caliber, which is less expensive than the in-house 89000-series caliber, IWC has gradually replaced the ETA 7750 in its chronograph movements. Our test watch carries a price tag of ¥9,075,000. The most affordable model of the new Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph with the caliber 89361 is ¥1,424,500, meaning you'll need to add ¥500,000 to your budget to get the flyback function and the longer power reserve of approximately 68 hours.
The power reserve of the caliber 69355 is about 46 hours, which is somewhat short by today's standards, but the change to a regulator and eccentric screw adjustment style makes adjustment simpler than that of the caliber 89361 used in the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph.
Additionally, the chronograph caliber 69355 uses a column wheel, a swing pinion for power transmission, and a bidirectional automatic winding system, though this automatic winding system is not the Pellaton system (named after a former IWC engineer) found in the 89000-series calibers, but rather a more modern system from the Richemont Group.
