A review of the Zenith Defy 21 Felipe Pantone, a collaboration with contemporary artist Felipe Pantone

Zenith has previously released a number of special edition models featuring bold colors for its Defy El Primero 21, a high-frequency chronograph watch measuring 1/100th of a second. This time, in collaboration with Felipe Panton, a contemporary artist of Argentine and Spanish origin, Zenith has created the Defy 21 Felipe Panton, which can be described as "wearable kinetic art."

High-frequency chronometry expressed through light and color

　Zenith began collaborating with Felipe Pantone in 2020, offering the façade of its Le Locle, Switzerland, building as a canvas for his work. Pantone's work is based on what's known as the "visible spectrum concept," which uses the wavelengths of visible light and refracted colors to create rainbow-like gradations. The ultra-high-frequency Defy El Primero 21 is an especially fitting stage for this expression.

　To realize the vision for the DEFY 21, which bears Pantone's name and style, Zenith developed new techniques never before used in watchmaking. For example, the movement bridges are given multicolor treatments using the principle of "interference colors." Finding the right method to create this rainbow effect required months of trial and error by Zenith's experts. The result was an innovative three-dimensional PVD coating in which the surface is treated with silicon particles, creating a perfectly shifting spectrum of colors. While the process is standardized, each piece is subtly different, making it essentially unique.

　The hour and minute hands, reminiscent of distorted lightning bolts, are also inspired by Felipe Panton's work and feature a rainbow gradient PVD coating. Achieving both the unusual shape of the hands and the perfectly changing color PVD coating was one of the most challenging aspects of creating this watch. Another noteworthy element is the moiré effect, a frequent theme in Felipe Panton's paintings and sculptures, featuring alternating black and white bands on the bridges and parts of the dial. Zenith has used this motif, using PVD and precise laser engraving techniques to create a fluid movement within the contrasting stripes. The openworked dial features a mix of gradient and black colors on the hour markers and counters, along with the meticulously crafted hands.

　The "FP#1" engraved on each corner of the ceramic case signifies the first collaboration with Felipe Pantone. The movement is the Caliber 9004, a chronograph movement with two escapements, one beating at 36,000 vph and the other at 360,000 vph, capable of measuring time to within 1/100th of a second.

　The DEFY 21 Felipe Panton comes in a presentation box worthy of its artistic merits, resembling a hardback book, with a specially commissioned miniature painting by Felipe Panton on the cover and a signed certificate of authenticity. Only 100 units are available worldwide.