Bvlgari's Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar: A unique and complicated timepiece

Bvlgari has taken a step towards thinner watches with the Octo Finissimo collection. However, this initiative did not begin overnight. Since acquiring the workshops of Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth under its umbrella, Bvlgari has taken what may seem like a roundabout time to refine its watchmaking expertise. The culmination of this effort is this new perpetual calendar.

An ambitious design that combines not only thinness but also visibility and durability

　Bvlgari has been breaking one world record after another for thinness. Adding to its lineup in 2021 is the world's thinnest automatic perpetual calendar. The latest model, the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar, has a case thickness of just 5.8mm, and the movement alone is only 2.75mm thick. However, what's noteworthy about this model is not just the thinness record, but the attitude of Bvlgari, who finally created this model.

　By acquiring the Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth workshops in 2000, Bvlgari gained the equipment, personnel, and know-how to manufacture sonnerie, repeater, and tourbillon timepieces. However, the company was cautious about expanding its lineup. The first Bvlgari released was a complicated watch that repurposed Genta and Roth movements. The design was a truly substantial piece, inheriting the skills of the skilled craftsmen at Genta's workshop.

　What happened next is interesting. After mastering the creation of classic complicated watches, Bulgari had this complicated watchmaking workshop turn around and design basic movements. I had thought that Bulgari would be able to use the former Genta and Roth workshops a little better, and I even asked people involved about this. However, Bulgari had been working on becoming a manufacture for a much longer period of time. In other words, by having this luxury watchmaking workshop design mass-produced products, Bulgari was "teaching" this luxury watchmaking workshop how to make a normal watch. The result was the Caliber 191, which we have praised in this magazine.

　Incidentally, it's not difficult for a workshop that can create sonnerie movements to design and manufacture thin watches. However, Bulgari didn't want a run-of-the-mill thin watch. The Octo Finissimo collection, which is not only thin but also usable, was the result of Bulgari's efforts. The detour with the Caliber 191 ultimately opened up a new direction for this complicated watch workshop.

　The Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar further emphasizes the concept of a thin, usable watch. By scattering the calendar display across the entire dial, the movement is only 2.75mm thick, despite being a perpetual calendar.

　The Octo Finissimo's design became even more sophisticated with the chronograph. This was achieved by adding a protrusion to the carrying arm, which acts as the clutch, and by slipping it under the bridge, it achieved both thinness and stable movement. This unprecedented design, which locks the clutch in place by hooking it, is proof that Bvlgari has finally mastered the design of thin watches.

　This model achieves both thinness and high visibility by distributing the calendar display. The program wheel, which is the heart of the perpetual calendar, and the snail that moves the date display are connected by a lever, just like previous perpetual calendars. However, rather than stacking the program wheel, it is separated into two parts, making it thinner. Also, by storing the tip of the lever inside the bridge, it achieves thinness and stable movement. Rather than being content with thinness, it incorporates a design that is properly usable, which is very much in keeping with Bulgari's current style.

　The appeal of the new perpetual calendar lies in the careful attention to detail. Not only has the calendar display been maximized, but the typeface used for the date and day of the week has also been made thicker without being excessive. This is common to the new models announced in 2021, which means that Bulgari is finally embracing the direction of a usable watch as a package.

　To be honest, I wasn't impressed with this watch until I saw it in person. But once I put it on my wrist, I was blown away by the craftsmanship. As a package, this is hands-down the best Octo Finissimo to date. I have the utmost respect for Bulgari's long and hard work in creating such a watch.