This spring, the signless Italian restaurant "Yuasa Issei Kenkyusho" has relocated to Nishi-Azabu, evolving further. Guests will be treated to a space surrounded by art and memorable Tuscan flavors.
Photographs by Yu Mitamura
[Article published in the May 2021 issue of Khronos Japan]
This signature dish is served midway through the 14-course omakase course. The soup is made with several types of crustaceans, fish bones, and shellfish, each cooked in its own unique way in a separate pot, and is topped with dried bonito flakes for a rich, satisfying flavor. The ingredients include golden-eyed snapper from Shimoda, Izu, clams from Kujukurihama, and Sicilian rouge. The fish used changes with the seasons, including flounder, blackthroat seaperch, flounder, and gurnard.
A unique experience of touching the real thing
"I visited Tuscany as a student and was fascinated by its unique cuisine, so I decided to return to this place to rediscover it," says Yuasa Issei, explaining his origins. True to his words, a few years later he traveled to Italy as a chef, honing his skills in Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna.
Born in Chiba Prefecture in 1984. After graduating from a vocational school, he worked at an Italian restaurant in Tokyo before moving to Italy in 2011. After returning to Japan, he worked at Yokohama's "SALONE2007" and Shibuya's "BIODINAMICO", before becoming the chef of Ebisu's "ISSEI YUASA Laboratory" in November 2020. In April 2021, following the relocation, he opened "ISSEI YUASA" in Nishi-Azabu.
The newly relocated ISSEI YUASA offers a course meal with a rich local flavor that will make you feel like you're traveling to the local area. The rich aroma of Cacciucco wafts out the moment you open the lid. It is a fisherman's dish that originated in the small port town of Livorno in Tuscany. As soon as you put it in your mouth with a spoon, you will be instantly captivated by its rich flavor. The dish is not only powerful but also sophisticated and elegant, because it has been reconstructed through the chef's own filter after learning about the authentic taste.
While local fishermen put all the ingredients into a pot at the same time to create a hearty soup, Yuasa heats each ingredient at the optimum temperature and adjusts the flavor with dried bonito flakes from Kanesa Katsuobushi Shoten. His recipes, which feature attractive Japanese ingredients, are the result of his travels around the country and his close friendships with producers.
"I'm conscious of creating dishes that are a little unique," says Yuasa. "Unique" refers to dishes that project Tuscany onto the plate in a way that is unique to him, a form of expression he arrived at in the pursuit of originality. It's also very interesting that "Cacciucco" is served on Rosanjin's tableware. The unique sense of incongruity that can only be experienced here piques curiosity.
The desire to "let guests experience the real thing" in terms of the food and tableware is also consistent in the space. Artworks by Alberto Giacometti and Tsuguharu Foujita decorate the walls, making it feel like a private gallery. The chairs, which guests spend the most time in contact with during the meal, are by Pierre Jeanneret.
For after-meal espresso, we use a stovetop moka pot, the flavor of which improves with age. As you sip a cup of coffee that holds great potential, you can bask in the afterglow of your meal, reminiscing about the flavors of Yuasa's past, present, and future.
ISSEI YUASA
Art Square Nishiazabu 1F, 1-4-22 Nishiazabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Tel.03-6804-1191
Closed on Sundays 18:00-23:00 *May vary depending on the situation
Chef's choice course: 19,800 yen (10% service charge not included)
By appointment only
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