[Interview] Panerai CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué

Panerai has previously focused on marine and military themes, as well as its own in-house movements. For its new 2021 collection, the brand has adopted the theme of protecting the oceans. Jean-Marc Pontroué, CEO of Panerai, began his talk by saying, "Japan is very sensitive to environmental issues."

This is the first time that a company has disclosed its suppliers as an environmental measure.

Jean-Marc Pontrouet
Born in France in 1964, he graduated from Audencia Nantes School of Management and worked as sales director at a leather goods manufacturer before joining the LVMH Group. After working at Givenchy, he joined the Richemont Group in 2000. After serving as vice president at Montblanc, he transferred to Roger Dubuis in 2011, becoming the company's CEO in February 2012. He has held his current position since April 1, 2018. Having reorganized the lineup, he is now working on environmental measures.

"Our approach to ecology is 'Ecologico,' and this year we announced the concept watch 'Submersible eLAB-ID.' This watch is made from approximately 98% recycled materials, and we have also revealed the names of the suppliers who worked on it. In the Swiss watch industry, supplier information is kept secret. However, we have disclosed the information and hope that our technology will be used. If Japanese manufacturers would like to access us, we will show them the recipes and protocols for the materials. Incidentally, we also have the regular model 'Luminor Marina e-Steel,' which is made from approximately 60% recycled materials. We are also working with UNESCO to educate people about environmental issues."

　In 2017, UNESCO ranked Swiss watch and jewelry manufacturers based on their environmental efforts. Since then, companies have rapidly begun to address environmental issues, but it was surprising to see Panerai open up about its suppliers.

"I think Panerai is the only one that has revealed its suppliers and costs. Yesterday I met with someone from the company that makes the luminous paint that Panerai uses. He said that he receives calls every day from people who want to use the luminous paint that Panerai uses. By the way, he is not receiving any referral fees for disclosing this information (laughs)."

　Another of his efforts is to further Italianize the brand. Indeed, when you watch the Panerai video, Italy is emphasized more than ever before. This is a point of view that only a Frenchman like him could have. But what is it that makes it so Italian?

"I think Italianity is about appearance. Panerai is a design object influenced by the beautiful things, clothing, and accessories that Italy produces. Italy is a place where various objects influence each other. Italians are optimistic and good at design. Panerai follows function and history, but was influenced by this environment. That's why Panerai has its design studio in Italy. To me, Italy is about culture and beauty. And color. By the way, there are three times as many types of straps as there are watches (laughs)."

　Panerai today emphasizes environmental protection and Italian identity in addition to its military and maritime history, but it was hard to imagine how far it would change.