With its slim case and world time display function, the Oceanus is highly popular among business people. The series, which is themed around "combining tradition and innovation," incorporates traditional Japanese craftsmanship into its design while retaining the brand's distinctive refined aesthetic, and has been well-received since its launch in 2018. The technique chosen for the latest model is "maki-e." This model, which uses the ancient Japanese technique of applying gold and silver powder to lacquerware to create patterns and designs, expresses the "sparkle of water" on a watch, not only showcases traditional beauty but also demonstrates Casio's challenging attitude and advanced technical capabilities.
Interview and text by Yuzo Takeishi
New expressions that sublimate traditional techniques with innovative technology
The series, which has the theme of "combining tradition and innovation," incorporated Edo Kiriko techniques in 2018 and Awa Indigo in 2020, giving new value to the Oceanus, which combines a calm appearance with practical functionality, while creating a look befitting a domestic brand. The third installment, the Oceanus Manta OCW-S5000ME, was released using the maki-e technique.
The project was produced and supervised by Kyoto maki-e master Yutaro Shimode. He is the third generation owner of Shimode Maki-e Shisho, a maki-e workshop founded in 1912. He creates pieces using traditional techniques and also repairs and restores cultural assets. In developing this series, Casio searched for elements of traditional Japanese culture that would be compatible with the Oceanus. Maki-e was one such example, but Casio initially viewed maki-e as a style made with gold powder, and felt it would be difficult to match with the world of the Oceanus. It was during this time that they met Shimode, who shared their desire to "inherit and evolve the art of maki-e." It was decided that his forward-thinking work would fit the theme of the series. Shimode also shared Casio's vision, and so the two companies began collaborating to create a watch that blends tradition and innovation.
The design concept of the new model is "Nukigaki Hamon (Maki-e Gradation and Cut-out Wave Pattern)." Inspired by Shimode's signature work, "Whisper of Eternity," the display stand for the Kyoto State Guest House, the design uses corrosion-resistant platinum powder instead of the gold or silver powder typically used in maki-e to express the sparkle of water. Furthermore, while the traditional technique was applied only to the bezel of the first Edo Kiriko model in the series and to the dial of the second Awa Ai model, this latest model uses maki-e on both the sapphire crystal bezel and dial to more attractively express the world of his work. This allows for delicate expression to be unfolded on a wider canvas.
Typically, maki-e involves drawing a design or pattern on the surface of lacquerware with lacquer, then sprinkling gold or silver powder on it before it dries, a process known as "powder application," to allow the design to set. However, considering that a wristwatch is a product to be worn daily, it is not practical to apply powder to the surface of the components. Therefore, for this model, a ripple pattern is applied with a transparent paint to the back of the dial and bezel before processing. Platinum powder is then sprinkled on, and the design is sealed in with layers of transparent and black paint. While this may seem like a simple production process, applying a delicate design to a canvas with a diameter of just 42.3 mm and achieving such high quality naturally requires advanced skill and sense.
First, from a wide variety of powders, including round and flat ones, platinum powder of a size and shape that would sparkle from any angle when completed was selected. However, in the early stages of production, simply sprinkling platinum powder and covering it with black paint did not produce a strong shine, so they incorporated various processes and went through repeated trial and error before arriving at the best method. In terms of the maki-e expression, they also combined the "skimming" technique, which deliberately leaves areas unpowdered, and sprinkled just a few grains of platinum powder there to create an emotional finish. This is truly a testament to the skill and sense possessed by Shimode and Casio.
Furthermore, because this model required a special process to seal in the Maki-e, Shimode visited Yamagata Casio, the company responsible for manufacturing this watch, and personally applied the Maki-e to all 1800+ watches, including the ``OCW-S5000ME'' and the ``OCW-S5000MES'', which is only sold in select stores, which shows how much effort has been put into this series.
On the other hand, one wonders why lacquer was not used if the goal was to achieve perfection as a watch that makes full use of traditional techniques. However, lacquer is a natural dye that changes color over time, so it seems that using lacquer was not practical in the first place. What was more important was using the optimal material to keep the brilliance of the platinum maki-e beautiful for a long time. Takayasu Sato, who is in charge of product planning, explains: "What is beautiful now should remain beautiful as it is. The things that can be used to achieve this are limited in terms of quality. This is where innovation, not just tradition, becomes necessary."
The completed OCW-S5000ME has a fantastical atmosphere with its jet-black dial and platinum maki-e bezel, and each hand-crafted maki-e design is subtly different, giving it a premium feel. To highlight this traditional technique, Casio decided to limit the iconic Oceanus blue to just the second hand and logo, a major challenge for the brand. However, the resulting look not only retains the distinctive Oceanus feel, but is also fitting for the ever-innovating Oceanus.
