Even in watches with multiple complicated mechanisms, most tend to keep the basic time indications (hour, minute, and second hands) in the center of the dial, creating a symmetrical overall design. Here, we will introduce five masterpieces with off-center dials that offer unique character through a different arrangement.

Originally published on watchtime.com
Text by Mark Bernardo
Article published on June 2021, 8

A. Lange & Söhne "Lange 1"

Lange 1

"Lange 1." Manual winding (Cal. L121.1). 43 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. 18K white gold case (diameter 38.5 mm, thickness 9.8 mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 4,477,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) A. Lange & Söhne Tel. 0120-23-1845

 The Lange 1, introduced by A. Lange & Söhne in 1994 as its modern flagship model, is an essential model for any discussion of off-center dial watches. The original Lange 1 set the stage for a series of watches featuring various complications, including moon phases, tourbillons, and perpetual calendars, and its core model has remained largely unchanged for over a quarter of a century. It displays hours and minutes on an off-center dial at 9 o'clock, seconds on a smaller subdial at 4:4, a bold outsize date display in two apertures at 2 o'clock, and an analog power reserve indicator (ranging from "auf" (full) to "ab" (zero)) at 3 o'clock. Housed in a modest 38.5mm white gold case with a sterling silver dial, it is powered by the in-house caliber L121.1, which has a power reserve of approximately 72 hours.


Armin Strom "Pure Resonance Special Edition Sky Blue"

Pure Resonance Special Edition Sky Blue

"Pure Resonance Special Edition Sky Blue." Manual winding (Cal. ARF16). 36 jewels. 25,200 vph. Power reserve approximately 48 hours. 18K white gold case (diameter 42mm, thickness 13mm). Water resistant to 50m. Limited to 3 pieces worldwide. Estimated price 1155 million yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Noble Styling Tel. 03-6277-1604

 Armin Strom believes that the fewer functions a watch has, the greater its precision. The Pure Resonance, launched in 2018 and released in a special "Sky Blue" edition in 2021, embodies this philosophy. The movement features two balance wheels that oscillate sympathetically to provide energy while simultaneously achieving chronometer-level precision. The hour and minute display is displayed on an off-center dial with Roman numerals. The guilloched finish is handcrafted by esteemed independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen. The small seconds subdial at 7 o'clock showcases the in-house caliber ARF16's unusually linear Côtes de Genève-finished bridges. Powered by two barrels, the movement offers a power reserve of approximately two days.


Breguet "Tradition Retrograde Date 7597"

Tradition Retrograde Date 7597

"Tradition Retrograde Date 7597". Automatic (Cal. 505Q, 14.5"). 45 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 50 hours. Platinum case (diameter 40mm, thickness 12.10mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 451 million yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Breguet Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-6254-7211

 Launched in 2005, Breguet's Tradition collection pays homage to the Subscription pocket watch, invented by Breguet's founder in 1796, and its successor, the Tact watch, by placing the main movement components on the mainplate and placing the subdial off-center. The Tradition Rétrograde Date 7597 adds a retrograde date display, one of the complications developed by Breguet's namesake founder. The 40mm gold case houses the automatic caliber 505Q with a silicon balance spring. The gold rotor evokes the era when automatic watches were introduced as "Perpetuals." The off-center dial features a Clous de Paris pattern and a retrograde date display around the periphery between 3 and 9 o'clock.


FP Journe "Automatic Lune"

Automatic Lune

"Automatic Lune". Automatic winding (Cal. 1300.3). 36 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 120 hours. 18K rose gold case (diameter 40.00 mm, thickness 10.60 mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 6,132,500 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) FP Journe Tokyo Boutique Tel. 03-5468-0931

 FP Journe introduced the original Octa Automatic Lune in 2007 and relaunched this iconic moon phase watch in 2019 with a redesigned dial, crown, and new case sizes. The case is available in 40mm and 42mm, crafted from platinum or 18K rose gold. The watch features a flat crown with a distinctive silk rope motif and a silver or Havana brown (pictured) dial. The dial features a railway minute track around the periphery, blue or gold printed Arabic numerals, and a central guilloched Clous de Paris pattern. A 120-hour power reserve indicator is displayed at 9 o'clock, a small seconds subdial at 4 o'clock, and a distinctive moon phase display with a sapphire disc at 7 o'clock. Powered by the in-house caliber 1300.3, the watch's main components are crafted from 18K gold.


Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skeleton Plasma Ceramic

Grande Seconde Skeleton Plasma Ceramic

"Grande Seconde Skeleton Plasma Ceramic." Automatic (Cal. Jaquet Droz 2663 SQ). 30 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 68 hours. Plasma ceramic case (diameter 41.50 mm, thickness 12.48 mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 2,827,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Jaquet Droz Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-6254-7288

 Jaquet Droz introduced its first skeleton watch in 2018, followed two years later by a new model crafted from plasma ceramic. This material, crafted from white ceramic treated with extremely high-temperature gases to impart a smooth, anthracite-gray sheen, is also exceptionally hard and scratch-resistant. The watch is presented on a gray fabric strap secured with a folding clasp crafted from the same plasma ceramic and stainless steel case. The dial features Jaquet Droz's iconic figure-eight shape, with the hours and minutes displayed at 12 o'clock. The dial features gray-treated white gold hands and indices, and a large seconds subdial at 6 o'clock.


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