What are the three universal appeals of Girard-Perregaux's "luxury sports" watches? "Laureato 42mm" & "Laureato Chronograph 42mm"

2021.08.16

The Laureato was revived in 2016 and has once again risen to become one of Girard-Perregaux's iconic watches. With its luxurious exterior, sporty design, and high water resistance, it is one of the most sought-after watches amid the current luxury sports watch boom. We will introduce three charms of the Laureato that have remained since the original model.

Laureato Bezel

Photo: Masatomo Yoshie
Photographs by Masanori Yoshie
Text: Yuto Hosoda (Chronos Japan Edition)
Text by Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-japan)
Article published on June 2021, 8


The origins lie in the sporty watch that debuted in 1975

 Luxury sports watches are currently the most popular luxury watch genre. While there is no strict definition, they often refer to models that combine an integrated bracelet, water resistance suitable for marine sports, and a sporty design.

Laureato first model

The first model of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato was released in 1975. At the time, the bracelet links were not H-shaped, and the movement was quartz. However, many of its design features, such as the octagonal bezel and the Clous de Paris dial, have been carried over to the current model.

 While many companies are now producing luxury sports watches, the first generation of such watches was born nearly 50 years ago. Examples of watches that fit this description include the pioneering models of the genre, such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak from 1972, the Patek Philippe Nautilus from 1976, and the Girard-Perregaux Laureato, which debuted in 1975.

 This time, we would like to focus on the Laureato, which appeared in the early days of luxury sports and is still at the forefront of Girard-Perregaux today.


The universal appeal of the Laureato inherited from the first model

 The Laureato has undergone multiple model changes, but its essence has remained unchanged since its introduction in 75.

 So what exactly is the Laureato's unique character? Here, we will look at three "universal charms" that the Laureato has retained since the first model.

①A design that combines sportiness and luxury

 According to GIRARD-PERREGAUX (by François Chaillou), published by Flammarion Publishing in Italy, the Laureato underwent a minor change in 1984, with the 1995 model equipped with an automatic movement being the second generation, and the Laureato EVO3 released in 2003 being the third generation. Therefore, the current model, which was revived as a limited edition in 2016 and became a regular model the following year in 2017, is the fourth generation.

Laureato

The bezel, which makes extensive use of straight lines but has rounded corners, combines a sporty and luxurious feel, and has now become an essential element of the Laureato's icon.

 In other words, the Laureato has undergone three model changes in the 50 years since the first model was released. Although there was a period of several years between the third and fourth generations when the watch was not on sale, its long lifespan is nothing but a testament to the excellent packaging of the Laureato watch. And the core of this excellent packaging is a design that combines sportiness and luxury.

 Generally, the more straight lines you use and the thicker the lines in a design, the sportier the impression you get, and conversely, the more curves and thin lines you use, the more formal the impression you get. The Laureato has succeeded in achieving both sportiness and luxury by skillfully using the ratio of straight lines and curves and the thickness of the lines used.

 The most obvious example is the octagonal bezel, which is based on the canopy of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore in Florence, Italy. By giving it eight straight lines rather than a simple circle, it gives it a sporty feel, and by carefully rounding the corners, it cleverly gives it a luxurious feel.

 Another obvious example of the use of different line thicknesses is the indices and minute track. The thick indices and hour and minute hands give the dial a heavy feel, while the thin bar-type minute track in between gives the dial a character that can be worn for formal occasions.

②High-quality finish given to the exterior

 While design can create a sense of luxury, high-quality finishing is essential to a luxury watch. Since its debut, the exterior of the Laureato has been one of the essential elements in establishing the model's identity as a luxury sports watch. The most notable feature is the Clous de Paris pattern that covers the entire dial.

Laureato Movement

The Laureato has always had an excellent exterior, but the current model has taken that quality to the next level. The bezel and case are primarily satin-finished, with polished beveled edges. The stainless steel used is 904L.

 Along with the octagonal bezel, the Clous de Paris has become an essential design icon for the Laureato. The Clous de Paris pattern on this model is pressed, rather than hand-engraved, and boasts exceptionally high quality, with each facet raised. This is evidenced by the fact that it reduces light reflection, ensuring excellent legibility even under strong light sources, as seen in the photo above. It also plays a role in creating a three-dimensional effect on the dial.

 Furthermore, while the original model was powered by quartz, the finishing of the movement was not given much importance, but the current model has been meticulously worked on. The Cal. GP01800 it is equipped with features Côtes de Genève on the bridges and rotor, circular graining on the main plate, and is also well-chamfered. It is a movement that is also enjoyable to view through the case back.

3. Lightweight and comfortable to wear

Laureato bracelet

The integrated bracelet provides a light and comfortable fit. Not only the links but also the bracelet links are carefully polished. As befits a luxury item, the bracelet links are adjusted using screws.

 A seamless integrated bracelet is the hallmark of luxury sports watches, and while the Laureato bracelet design has changed since the original, it remains flexible and comfortable to wear.

 The H-shaped links and polished links have just the right amount of play, so your arm won't get tired even when wearing it for long periods of time. However, because the bracelet is a little thin compared to the weight of the head, it seems to be better suited to being worn tighter rather than looser.


A valuable, affordable, high-quality luxury sports

 The Girard-Perregaux Laureato has been a luxury sports watch for nearly 50 years since the first model was released. With the recent boom in luxury sports watches, it is not uncommon for some brands to no longer be able to purchase their watches, so it is a blessing that this model with all of these features is still available in stores.

 Affordable, high-quality luxury sports watches are becoming increasingly rare. If you're interested in luxury sports watches, we recommend considering the Laureato while you can still see and hold it in your hands.

Laureato 42mm

Girard-Perregaux "Laureato 42mm"
Ref.81010-11-431-11A

Automatic movement (Cal. GP01800). 28 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 54 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 42mm). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 1,595,000 yen (tax included).
Laureato Chronograph 42mm

Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph 42mm
Ref.81020-11-131-11A

Automatic movement (Cal. GP03300). 63 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 46 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 42mm). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 1,595,000 yen (tax included).


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