Rolex's Oyster Perpetual Submariner: A watch that respects tradition

In September 2020, Rolex announced the new Oyster Perpetual Submariner. While the date model offered an astonishing variety of colors, the non-date Submariner remained faithful to the original design. Taking a look at its history, we reexamine its appeal.

New proportions brought about by upgraded details

　It would be a mistake to think that Rolex innovation means revolution. However, the Submariner has been improved in such a way that the sum of its many details creates a new watch. The diameter of the non-date Submariner watch has increased from 40mm to 41mm, or more precisely, from 40.6mm to 41.36mm measured diagonally from 2 to 8 o'clock. The crown guards and lugs have been slimmer, which has resulted in a slight increase in lug width to 21mm.

　While the changes may seem very subtle, they affect the overall proportions of the watch, including the case, bezel, dial, and bracelet. In essence, you're looking at an entirely new model. When you place the new Oyster Perpetual Submariner next to its (discontinued) predecessor, the differences are immediately apparent. While the new Submariner is actually only a millimeter larger, numerous refinements to the most minute details make it appear much larger than its predecessor.

　Like all Rolex watches, the movement is sealed by a knurled, screwed-down closed caseback that can only be opened by an authorized Rolex watchmaker using a special key. Inside, the automatic caliber 3230 features Rolex's patented Chronergy escapement, made from a nickel-phosphorus alloy that is antimagnetic and 15% more energy-efficient than the Swiss lever escapement. It also features a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring.

　Rolex produces this hairspring in-house from Parachrom alloy, which is approximately 10 times more accurate than a standard balance spring. Rolex's proprietary overcoil ensures a stable frequency regardless of positional changes. Supporting this oscillator is the Paraflex shock absorber, a shock-absorbing device designed and patented by Rolex. Thanks to more efficient escapement and barrel design, the power reserve has been extended from approximately 48 hours to approximately 70 hours.

　Of course, the movements of the watches shipped are not only COSC-certified, but also undergo a rigorous final inspection conducted in-house by Rolex, which, according to the current standards that came into effect in 2015, does not allow deviations of more than two seconds per day.

　The Submariner was born in 1953 as the first professional diver's watch, waterproof to a depth of 100 meters. This was an era when diver's watches were more commonly used by professionals than recreational enthusiasts. Keeping track of the time while diving was a matter of life and death. The Submariner remains true to its roots, with no major changes to its clear, simple dial. The hour and minute hands each have distinct features to prevent confusion. The triangular, circular, and rectangular hour markers are used for directional guidance, while also improving legibility and preventing misreading both underwater and on land. The hands and markers glow a vibrant blue in the dark thanks to the Chromalight display. The dot on the tip of the second hand, which allows you to check if the watch is running, and the zero marker on the bezel are also luminous.

A technically outstanding diver's watch

　The ratcheted bezel, which rotates counterclockwise in half-minute increments, functions perfectly. Its deeply grooved edges ensure secure operation, even with wet hands or diving gloves. The rotating ring features a black ceramic Cerachrom insert, and the recessed numerals and markers on the 60-minute scale are coated with a thin layer of PVD platinum. To create its monobloc bezels and tracks, Rolex has focused on developing specialized ceramics that offer excellent corrosion resistance, a wide range of colors, and scratch resistance. Today, Rolex produces all of its ceramic components in-house.

　The bezel is part of a robust Oyster case that guarantees water resistance to 300 meters/1000 feet, a testament to its durability and reliability. The stainless steel case frame, which Rolex calls "Oystersteel," is also highly corrosion-resistant. The required water resistance is ensured by a sealed caseback, a screw-down design, and a Triplock crown protected by a crown guard. The crystal is made of scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.

　The new Submariner features the patented Oysterlock clasp, which prevents the bracelet from accidentally opening, and the revolutionary Rolex Glidelock extension system, which allows for precise adjustment of the bracelet length without the need for tools. The 10-position sliding adjustment system allows for up to 20mm of length, making it comfortable to wear over a diving suit. No revolution of this caliber is needed to ensure that the Submariner remains the gold standard for diver watches.