Why Breguet Marine? Revealing its full potential (Part 2)

The new Marine collection, which launched in earnest the following year, was preceded by the introduction of complicated timepieces in 2017. The current, third-generation collection clearly tells a story of the sea, while displaying Breguet's distinctive style in all aspects of watchmaking, design, and decorative finishing, making it a flagship of sporty luxury watches.

The innovative Marine with its equation of time display

The Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887, released ahead of the new generation Marine collection, was a sensational piece, along with the innovative design of the case and dial, as it was an ultra-thin complicated watch incorporating an equation of time display linked to a tourbillon and perpetual calendar.It could also be called a marine chronometer, realized in the size of a wristwatch.

Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887

　The Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887, which debuted in 2017, is a masterpiece that focuses on the most important parts of Breguet's historical heritage and expresses them in a wristwatch. The tourbillon and perpetual calendar with equation of time display, which play the central role, are both authentic complications originating from Abraham-Louis Breguet's inventions, but today Breguet has taken these to the next level by utilizing cutting-edge technology.

　First of all, the tourbillon has abandoned the classic rotating mechanism with a fixed fourth wheel and pinion, replacing it with a new system in which the carriage rotates with power from the periphery, making the structure itself thinner. It has evolved into a cutting-edge, modern tourbillon, with titanium used for the carriage, but at the same time, the mechanism for the equation of time is noteworthy. The equation of time refers to the difference between true solar time, which fluctuates throughout the year based on the actual sun, and mean solar time, which averages out that fluctuation. Normal watches use mean solar time, which can vary by a maximum of around 15 minutes plus or minus from true solar time throughout the year, and the two only coincide on four days a year.

　In this model, the cam that controls the equation of time is superimposed on the tourbillon, an ingenious design that allows it to be seen through an aperture. The elliptical equation of time cam is reminiscent of the mechanism in the ultra-complex "Marie Antoinette," one of Abraham-Louis Breguet's greatest masterpieces. The information from the feeler that traces this equation of time cam is transmitted to a minute hand with a sun motif at its tip, and true solar time can be read directly at any time through another minute hand that moves constantly. The difference between this minute hand indicating true solar time and the regular minute hand that displays mean solar time corresponds to the equation of time. While a few modern complicated watches display the equation of time on a scale, this type of running equation, known as a running equation, is rare, and it's rare to find a wristwatch that also features a tourbillon.

　Understanding the equation of time has long been crucial to navigation. Without precise calculations comparing the mean solar time indicated by a ship's clock with true solar time measured by celestial observations, a ship's position at sea could not be accurately determined. Abraham-Louis Breguet, a member of the Committee of Longitude, awarded the title of watchmaker for the French Royal Navy, and dedicated his career to the creation of marine chronometers, had a strong interest in the equation of time and navigation. While the modern Marine collection is conceived to celebrate history, this is made even clearer in the Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887, which clearly defines the meaning of the equation of time and its complex mechanisms, weaving a magnificent story from a single watch. Its great value lies in the way it weaves together these elements.

　Despite being equipped with these complex mechanisms, the Caliber 581DPE uses a peripheral rotor for automatic winding, resulting in an ultra-thin case thickness of 11.75mm, almost the same as the 11.5mm of the Marine automatic three-hand model. Furthermore, it boasts a high-speed oscillation of 28,800 vibrations per hour, providing a power reserve of approximately 80 hours. The decorative finish of the movement, like the wave pattern on the dial, also has a sea and nautical theme. The barrel is meticulously hand-engraved with a compass rose, and the bridge features the image of the former French Navy battleship Royal Louis, continuing the endless story of the sea.

Not only the exterior, but even the movement design is heartfelt

Breguet launched the Marine Lady collection for women in 2019. The small, approximately 34mm case features a unique design with center lugs, just like the men's model, and is equipped with an automatic movement. Distinctive features include mother-of-pearl and lacquer dials that enhance the beautiful face of the ladies' watch, as well as the adoption of a stainless steel case and diamond setting, a first for the new generation Marine.

Marine Lady 9517/9518

　The Marine Lady, which debuted in 2019, is based on a nautical theme, just like the three men's watches released the previous year. However, it is not simply a ladies' version of its predecessor; it pioneers a new world for the new generation of Marine. The approximately 34mm case is available in rose gold and white gold, and for the first time, stainless steel replaces the titanium used in the men's collection. The lineup also includes a precious stainless steel model set with diamonds, just like the gold model. While the elegant oval-shaped Reine de Naples is Breguet's signature ladies' watch, the Marine Lady, with its different style and pursuit of modern sporty elegance, is already garnering attention as a new icon for women.

　For a ladies' watch, nothing is more important than a "refined appearance." Breguet has created two different dials for the Marine Lady. One features an original motif called "Marea," depicting waves crashing onto the shore from the ocean. Breguet manufactured a special cam for its guilloching machine to engrave this motif into the mother-of-pearl set into the dial and the movement's rotor. The other is a blue lacquer dial that depicts the swirling foam of the ocean. Liquid transparent lacquer is applied over the blue material, allowing the two to naturally blend together to create a unique marbled pattern, giving the dial an unprecedented, exceptional beauty. The refined appearance of both the mother-of-pearl and lacquer dials is enhanced, further enhancing their radiance with diamonds set into the bezel.

　Breguet's movements are primarily mechanical, even for its ladies' watches. The caliber 591A used in the new Marine Lady is an automatic movement that has been improved upon based on the old Lemania caliber, which has also been used in various models in the Classique collection. The unidirectional automatic winding mechanism is expected to provide high winding efficiency even for women who do not move their arms as much. Furthermore, the use of silicon for the escapement and balance spring means that there is no risk of the watch becoming magnetized even if it comes into contact with the magnetic clasp of a bag, making this an extremely practical movement.

Breguet's mastery of diamond setting is evident in its precision

The Poseidonia model, inspired by a precious species of seaweed found in the Mediterranean Sea, poetically expresses the theme of the sea. The dial, made of mother-of-pearl and precious stones, and the case adorned with lavish diamonds, invite you into the precious and luxurious world of high jewelry watches. Breguet has proven its excellence not only in its mechanisms but also in its jewelry techniques.

Marine High Jewelry 9509 Poseidonia

　Breguet is renowned not only for its most sophisticated and complicated timepieces, but also for its extravagant jewelry watches. Indeed, the Breguet collection includes many exquisite pieces crafted by the manufacture's jewelry artisans using the most sophisticated techniques.

　The new generation "Marine" model fully demonstrates this skill with a high jewelry watch named "Poseidonia." The dial, inspired by Posidonia oceanica, a seaweed that lives on the bottom of the Mediterranean Sea and is essential to the ocean's ecological balance, features a background of mother-of-pearl marquetry, while the swaying seaweed is accented with diamonds, sapphires in various colors, including blue, amethysts, and tsavorites. Like the dial, the rainbow bezel, which effectively utilizes the gradation of colored stones, is also unparalleled in beauty.

　Every visible part of the Poseidonia is adorned with gemstones. In the all-diamond model, the seaweed motif is composed of 85 diamonds, each intricately cut to match the irregular curves of the seaweed. A total of 123 baguette-cut diamonds are set in the bezel surrounding the dial, the fluted caseband—Breguet's signature—and the lugs. The crown, buckle, and rotor of the automatic movement are also adorned with diamonds, making this an exceptionally luxurious piece.

　The magnificent brilliance of the gems is supported by a stone setting technique known as gem setting, and this model makes use of invisible setting for the baguette-cut gems. Unlike typical settings where the prongs for the stone setting are visible, invisible setting hides the prongs, requiring the jeweller's extremely high level of skill, not only to cut the gem to match the design, but also to set the entire gem smoothly and continuously without any distortion or gaps. This invisible setting also has the advantage that the white gold that forms the base of the gems is not visible, giving the impression that the seaweed motif on the dial, bezel, etc. are made entirely from the gems themselves.

In addition to the full-diamond model, Poseidonia also comes in three other models that effectively use rubies, blue sapphires, and emeralds to create a rainbow of colors, all of which have poetic hues that will transport you to the mysterious world of the sea.