Ulysse Nardin celebrates its 175th anniversary: ​​the culmination of savoir-faire and artisanship

2021.10.09

Since its founding in 1846, Ulysse Nardin has manufactured marine chronometers for ships, which have been adopted by navies around the world. Furthermore, its track record of winning competitions for superior watchmaking technology and precision is testament to its high-precision timekeeping, which continues to this day. Armed with this historical heritage and incorporating modern technology, Ulysse Nardin celebrates its 175th anniversary in 2021 with the introduction of a limited edition model of the Marine Torpilleur, which was released in 17 to represent the next generation of Ulysse Nardin.

Marine Torpilleur

(right)Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon Grand Feu
Equipped with the patented "UN Constant Escapement Tourbillon" consisting of a silicon escape wheel, anchor, and constant force device. Notably, it is a flying tourbillon without a bridge. Features an in-house Grand Feu black enamel dial. Automatic winding (Cal. UN-128). 36 jewels. 18,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. 18KRG (diameter 42mm, thickness 11.93mm). Water resistant to 50m. Limited to 175 pieces worldwide. Price: 5,852,000 yen (tax included).
(left)Marine Torpilleur Moon Phase
The watch is equipped with the in-house movement Cal. UN-118 and Cal. UN-119, which features a moon phase display. The dial is white lacquered. Like other limited edition models, the small seconds display features the "CHRONOMETRY SINCE 1846" marking, marking the 175th anniversary limited edition model. COSC-certified chronometer. Automatic (Cal. UN-119). 45 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 42mm, thickness 11.13mm). Water resistant to 50m. Limited to 300 pieces worldwide. Price: 1,199,000 yen (tax included).
Photographs by Eiichi Okuyama
Interview and text by Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2021 issue of Kronos Japan]


"Precision" and "Design" inherited from marine chronometers

Marine Torpilleur Blue Enamel
This watch features a Grand Feu blue enamel dial made by Donze Cadrans, a subsidiary of the company. After firing, the enamel surface is polished to create a lustrous finish without being too smooth, resulting in a refined surface. The unique shade of blue varies from one watch to another, adding to its charm. COSC-certified chronometer. Automatic (Cal. UN-118). 50 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 42mm, thickness 11.73mm). Water resistant to 50m. Limited to 175 pieces worldwide. Price: 1,386,000 yen (tax included).

 This year marks the 175th anniversary of the founding of Ulysse Nardin. Since establishing its workshop in Le Locle, Switzerland in 1846, the company has been known for providing marine chronometers, created with its advanced technical expertise, to navies around the world, which has been enough to enhance the company's reputation.

 The brand also has deep ties to Japan, and a deck chronometer manufactured by Ulysse Nardin was installed on the battleship Mikasa, which served as flagship of the Imperial Japanese Navy's Combined Fleet and achieved a historic victory in the Battle of Tsushima (1905) during the Russo-Japanese War that broke out in 1904. At the time, Ulysse Nardin's marine chronometers were so reliable and accurate that they were adopted for battleships on which the fate of the nation depended. This fact is quite convincing.

The manufacturing process of an enamel dial

The manufacturing process for enamel dials at Donze Cadrans, a subsidiary of Ulysse Nardin. (From the right) Four to five layers of homogeneously ground enamel powder mixed with water are applied to the main plate that forms the base of the dial. The plate covered with the enamel layer is then placed in an oven and fired at a high temperature of over 800°C.

The manufacturing process of an enamel dial

(From the right) The surface of the baked enamel is polished evenly with an abrasive. After a final process in an oven, the surface is further polished and then cut into three plates and adjusted. The three plates are assembled and welded from the back, and the brand name, indexes, etc. are transferred to the surface of the dial. It takes one enameller approximately two days to work on one dial.

 With such a historical background, the company's iconic Marine Chronometer model was given a modern makeover in 2017. It was released as the Marine Torpilleur, a lighter and thinner model, designed for free-spirited adventurers. "Torpilleur" is French for "destroyer," and in English refers to a small ship known as a "destroyer." While large battleships with main guns like the Mikasa disappeared around the time of World War II as they became targets for aircraft, small, fast, and maneuverable destroyers remain in active service today, highlighting the modernity that Ulysse Nardin has incorporated into this model.

 While the Marine Chronometer, which has long been one of Ulysse Nardin's iconic models, has a case diameter of 43mm, the newly designed Marine Torpilleur is more modern and has been downsized to a now-standard 42mm. It's worth noting that while it's equipped with the same in-house developed caliber UN-118, the case thickness of the former is approximately 14mm, while the latter is approximately 11mm, making it approximately 3mm thinner, achieving the agility and maneuverability that its name suggests. It's truly a model worthy of leading the next generation.

UN Constant Escapement Tourbillon

The silicon escape wheel (left) and constant force mechanism (right), including a silicon pallet, make up the "UN Constant Escapement Tourbillon," a result of Ulysse Nardin's silicon technology work since 2000. The power transmitted from the escape wheel to the pallet is kept constant by the springy silicon parts, and is transmitted to the balance. Another advantage of using silicon is that it can be made lighter.

 In 2021, Ulysse Nardin celebrates its 175th anniversary, incorporating both its historical heritage and current technological capabilities into the Marine Torpilleur. While retaining the traditional design features of its marine chronometers—double counters at 12 and 6 o'clock, Roman numerals, and cathedral-shaped hour and minute hands—the watch incorporates silicon components, a pioneering research and development effort by the company since 2000. Now manufactured in-house, the watch also features an enamel dial, boasting increasingly refined surfaces. Of the seven new models, three iconic models are introduced here, but the lineup also includes an annual calendar chronograph, fully demonstrating the company's modern technological capabilities.

 Both are the company's latest achievements, crystallizing the savoir-faire (know-how) and métiers d'art (craftsmanship) that Ulysse Nardin has cultivated over 175 years of watchmaking history.

Cal.UN-118, Cal.UN-128

On the right is the Cal. UN-118, an in-house developed movement that is fitted to the limited edition three-hand model released to commemorate the company's 175th anniversary. It uses a silicon balance spring and a Diamondsil escapement (escape wheel and anchor) made of diamond-coated silicon. On the left is the Cal. UN-128, a flying tourbillon movement fitted to the regular Marine Tourbillon. It is characterised by the absence of a bridge to support the carriage.



Contact info: Sowind Japan Tel. 03-5211-1791

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